The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Further on he adds: ‘If a glutton can be made to gormandise two hours
upon two ounces of meat, it is certainly much better for him than to
give himself an indigestion by eating two pounds in the same time.’
This is amusing as well as instructive; so also are his researches
into what I may venture to describe as the _specific sapidity_ of
different kinds of food, which he determined by diluting or intermixing
them with insipid materials, and thereby ascertaining the amount of
surface over which they might be spread before their particular flavour
disappeared. He concluded that a red herring has the highest specific
sapidity—_i.e._ the greatest amount of flavour in a given weight of any
kind of food he had tested, and that, comparing it on the basis of cost
for cost, its superiority is still greater.
He tells us that ‘the pleasure of eating depends very much indeed upon
the _manner_ in which the food is applied to the organs of taste,’ and
that he considers ‘it necessary to mention, and even to illustrate in
the clearest manner, every circumstance which appears to have influence
in producing these important effects.’ As an example of this, I may
quote his instructions for eating hasty pudding: ‘The pudding is then
eaten with a spoon, each spoonful of it being dipped into the sauce
before it is carried to the mouth, care being had in taking it up to
begin on the outside, or near the brim of the plate, and to approach
the centre by regular advances, in order not to demolish too soon
the excavation which forms the reservoir for the sauce.’ His solid
Indian-corn pudding is, in like manner, ‘to be eaten with a knife and
fork, beginning at the circumference of the slice, and approaching
regularly towards the centre, each piece of pudding being taken up with
the fork and dipped into the butter, or dipped into it _in part only_,
before it is carried to the mouth.’
As a supplement to the cheap soup recipes I will quote one which
Rumford gives as the cheapest food which in his opinion can be provided
in England: Take of water 8 gallons, mix it with 5 lbs. of barley-meal,
boil it to the consistency of a thick jelly. Season with salt, vinegar,
pepper, sweet herbs, and four red herrings pounded in a mortar. Instead
of bread, add 5 lbs. of Indian corn made into a _samp_, and stir it
together with a ladle. Serve immediately in portions of 20 oz.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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