The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
I am the more urgent in propounding this view of the subject, because I
see plainly that not only the patients, but too commonly their medical
advisers, do not understand it. When I was in the midst of these
experiments I called upon a clerical neighbour, and found him in his
study with his foot on a pillow, and groaning with gout. A decanter of
pale, choice, very dry sherry was on the table. He poured out a glass
for me and another for himself. I tasted it, and then perpetrated the
unheard-of rudeness of denouncing the wine for which my host had paid
so high a price. He knew a little chemistry, and I accordingly went
home forthwith, brought back some chloride of barium, added it to his
choice sherry, and showed him a precipitate which made him shudder. He
drank no more dry sherry, and has had no serious relapse of gout.
In this case his medical adviser prohibited port and advised dry sherry.
The following from ‘The Brewer, Distiller, and Wine Manufacturer,’ by
John Gardner (Churchill’s ‘Technological Handbooks,’ 1883), supports my
view of the position of the wine-maker and wine-merchant. ‘Dupré and
Thudicum have shown by experiment that this practice of plastering, as
it is called, also reduces the yield of the liquid, as a considerable
part of the wine mechanically combines with the gypsum and is lost.’
When an adulteration—justly so-called—is practised, the object is
to enable the perpetrator to obtain an increased profit on selling
the commodity at a given price. In this case an opposite result is
obtained. The gypsum, or Spanish earth, is used in considerable
quantity, and leaves a bulky residuum, which carries away some of the
wine with it, and thus increases the cost to the seller of the saleable
result.
Having referred so often to dry wines, I should explain the chemistry
of this so-called dryness. The fermentation of wine is the result
of a vegetable growth, that of the yeast, a microscopic fungus
(_Penicillium glaucum_). The must, or juice of the grape, obtains the
germ spontaneously—probably from the atmosphere. Two distinct effects
are produced by this fermentation or growth of fungus: first, the sugar
of the must is converted into alcohol; second, more or less of the
albuminous or nitrogenous matter of the must is consumed as food by
the fungus. If uninterrupted, this fermentation goes on either until
the supply of sufficient sugar is stopped, or until the supply of
sufficient albuminous matter is stopped. The relative proportions of
these determine which of the two shall be first exhausted.
If the sugar is exhausted before the nitrogenous food of the fungus,
a dry wine is produced; if the nitrogenous food is first consumed,
the remaining unfermented sugar produces a sweet wine. If the sugar
is greatly in excess, a _vin de liqueur_ is the result, such as the
Frontignac, Lunel, Rivesaltes, &c., made from the muscat grape.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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