The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The varieties of grape are very numerous. Rusby, in his ‘Visit to the
Vineyards of Spain and France,’ gives a list of 570 varieties, and, as
far back as 1827, Cavalow enumerated more than 1,500 different wines in
France alone.
From the above it will be understood that, _cæteris paribus_, the
poorer the grape the drier the wine; or that a given variety of grape
will yield a drier wine if grown where it ripens imperfectly, than if
grown in a warmer climate. But the quantity of wine obtainable from a
given acreage in the cooler climate is less than where the sun is more
effective, and thus the _naturally_ dry wines cost more to produce than
the _naturally_ sweet wines.
The reader will understand, from what has already been stated
concerning the origin of the difference between natural sweet wines and
natural dry wines, that the conversion of either one into the other
is not a difficult problem. Wine is a fashionable beverage in this
country, and fashions fluctuate. These fluctuations are not accompanied
with a corresponding variation in the chemical composition of any
particular class of grapes, but somehow the wine produced therefrom
obeys the laws of supply and demand. For some years past the demand for
dry sherry has dominated in this country, though, as I am informed, the
weathercock of fashion is now on the turn.
One mode of satisfying this demand for dry wine is, of course, to make
it from a grape which has little sugar and much albuminous matter,
but in a given district this is not always possible. Another is to
gather the grapes before they are fully ripened, but this involves a
sacrifice in the yield of alcohol, and probably of flavour. Another
method, obvious enough to the chemist, is to add as much albuminous
or nitrogenous material as shall continue to feed the yeast fungus
until all, or nearly all, the sugar in the grape shall be converted
into alcohol, thus supplying strength and dryness (or salinity)
simultaneously. Should these be excessive, the remedy is simple and
cheap wherever water abounds. It should be noted that the quantity of
sugar naturally contained in the ripe grape varies from 10 to 30 per
cent.—a very large range. The quantity of alcohol varies proportionally
when the must is fermented to dryness. According to Pavy, ‘there are
dry sherries to be met with that are free from sugar,’ while in other
wines the quantity of remaining sugar amounts to as much as 20 per cent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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