The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Confining our attention at present to the albumen, what must happen
if the fish or flesh is put in cold water, which is gradually heated?
Obviously a loss of albumen by exudation and diffusion through the
water, especially in the case of sliced fish or of meat exposing much
surface of fibres cut across. It is also evident that such loss of
albumen will be shown by its coagulation when the water is sufficiently
heated.
Practical readers will at once recognise in the ‘scum’ which rises to
the surface of the boiling water, and in the milkiness that is more or
less diffused throughout it, the evidence of such loss of albumen. This
loss indicates the desirability of plunging the fish or flesh at once
into water hot enough to immediately coagulate the superficial albumen,
and thereby plug the pores through which the inner albuminous juice
otherwise exudes.
But this is not all. There are other juices besides the albumen; these
are the most important of the _flavouring_ constituents, and, _with
the other constituents of animal food_, have great nutritive value;
so much so, that animal food is quite tasteless and almost worthless
without them. I have laid especial emphasis on the above qualification,
lest the reader should be led into an error originated by the bone-soup
committee of the French Academy, and propagated widely by Liebig—that
of regarding these juices as a concentrated nutriment when taken alone.
They constitute collectively the _extractum carnis_, which, with
the addition of more or less gelatine (the less the better), is
commonly sold as Liebig’s ‘Extract of Meat.’ It is prepared by simply
mincing lean meat, exposing it to the action of cold water, and then
evaporating down the solution of extract thus obtained.
I shall return to this on reaching the subjects of clear soups and
beef-tea, at present merely adding as evidence of the importance of
retaining these juices in cooked meat, that the extracts of beef,
mutton, and pork may be distinguished by their specific flavours. Some
Extract of Kangaroo, sent to me many years ago from Australia by the
Ramornie Company, made a soup that was curiously different in flavour
from the other extract similarly prepared by the same company. Epicures
pronounced it very choice and ‘gamey.’[5] When these juices are removed
from the meat, mutton, beef, pork, &c., the remaining solids are all
alike, so far as the palate alone can distinguish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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