The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
By boiling out the rich oil of the salmon, the Norwegian reduces it
nearly to the condition of cod-fish, concerning which I learned a
curious fact from two old Doggerbank fishermen, with whom I had a
long sailing cruise from the Golden Horn to the Thames. They agreed
in stating that cod-fish is like bread, that they and all their mates
lived upon it (and sea-biscuits) day after day for months together,
and never tired, while richer fish ultimately became repulsive if
eaten daily. This statement was elicited by an immediate experience.
We were in the Mediterranean, where bonetta were very abundant, and
every morning and evening I amused myself by spearing them from
the martingale of the schooner, and so successfully that all hands
(or rather mouths) were abundantly supplied with this delicious
dark-fleshed, full-blooded, and high-flavoured fish. I began by making
three meals a day on it, but at the end of about a week was glad to
return to the ordinary ship’s fare of salt junk and chickens.
The following account of an experiment of Count Rumford’s is very
interesting and instructive. He says: ‘I had long suspected that it
could hardly be possible that precisely the temperature of 212° (that
of boiling water) should be that which is best adapted for cooking _all
sorts of food_; but it was the unexpected result of an experiment that
I made with another view which made me particularly attentive to this
subject. Desirous of finding out whether it would be possible to roast
meat on a machine that I had contrived for drying potatoes, and fitted
up in the kitchen of the House of Industry at Munich, I put a shoulder
of mutton into it, and after attending to the experiment three hours,
and finding that it showed no signs of being done, I concluded that the
heat was not sufficiently intense, and despairing of success I went
home, rather out of humour at my ill success, and abandoned my shoulder
of mutton to the cookmaids.
‘It being late in the evening and the cookmaids thinking, perhaps, that
the meat would be as safe in the drying machine as anywhere else, left
it there all night. When they came in the morning to take it away,
intending to cook it for their dinner, they were much surprised at
finding it _already cooked_, and not merely eatable, but perfectly well
done, and most singularly well tasted. This appeared to them the more
miraculous, as the fire under the machine was quite gone out before
they left the kitchen in the evening to go to bed, and as they had
locked up the kitchen when they left it, and taken away the key.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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