The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Now, here we require a little more chemistry. There is smoking and
smoking; smoking that produces a detestable flavour, and smoking that
does no mischief at all beyond appearances. The flame of an ordinary
coal fire is due to the distillation and combustion of tarry vapours.
If such a flame strikes a comparatively cool surface like that of the
meat, it will condense and deposit thereon a film of crude coal tar and
coal naphtha, most nauseous and rather mischievous; but if the flame be
that which is caused by the combustion of its own fat, the deposit on
a mutton-chop will be a little mutton juice, on a beefsteak a little
beef juice, more or less blackened by mutton-carbon or beef-carbon. But
these have no other flavour than that of cooked mutton and cooked beef;
therefore they are perfectly innocent, in spite of their black, guilty
appearances.
If any of my readers are sceptical, let them appeal to experiment by
putting a mutton-chop to the torture, and taking its own confession.
To do this, divide the chop in equal halves, then hold one half
over a flaming coal, immersing it in the flame, and thus cook it.
Now cut a bit of fat off the other, throw this fat on a surface of
clear, glowing, flameless coal or coke, and, when a good blaze is thus
obtained, immerse the half chop recklessly and unmercifully into _this_
flame; there let it splutter and fizz, let it drop more fat and make
more flame, but hold it there nevertheless for a few minutes, and then
taste the result.
In spite of its blackness, it will be (if just warmed through to
the above-named cooking temperature) a deliciously-cooked, juicy,
nutritious, digestible morsel, apparently raw, but actually more
completely cooked than if it had been held twice as long, at double the
distance, from the surface of the fire.
For further instruction, make a third experiment by imitating the
cautious unscientific cook, who, ignorant of the difference between
the condensation products of coal and those from beef and mutton fat,
carefully raises the gridiron directly the flame from the dropping
fat threatens the object of her solicitude. The result will be an
ordinary domestic chop or steak. I apply this adjective, because in
this particular effort of cookery, the grilling of chops and steaks,
domestic cookery is commonly at fault. The majority of our City men
find that while the joint cooked at home is better than that they
usually get at restaurants and hotels, the chops and steaks are
inferior.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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