The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
A considerable time is here inevitably demanded. Of course, the
higher the initial outside temperature, the more rapidly the heat
will penetrate; but we cannot apply this law to a lump of meat as we
may to a mass of iron. We may go on heating the outside of the iron
to redness, but not so the meat. So long as the surface of the meat
remains moist, we cannot raise it to a higher temperature than the
boiling-point of the liquid that moistens it. Above this, charring
commences. A little of such charring, such as occurs to the steak
or small joint during the short period of its exposure to the great
heat, does no harm; it simply ‘browns’ the surface; but if this were
continued during the roasting of a large joint, a crust of positively
black charcoal would be formed, with ruinous waste and general
detriment.
As Rumford proved long ago, liquids are very bad conductors, and when
their circulation is prevented by confinement between fibres, as in
the meat, the rate at which heat will travel through the humid mass is
very slow indeed. As few of my readers are likely to fully estimate the
magnitude of this difficulty, I will state a fact that came under my
own observation, and at the time surprised me.
About five-and-twenty years ago I was visiting a friend at Warwick
during the ‘mop,’ or ‘statute fair’—the annual slave market of the
county. In accordance with the old custom, an ox was roasted whole in
the open public market-place. The spitting of the carcass and starting
the cookery was a disgusting sight. We are accustomed to see the
neatly-cut joints ordinarily brought to the kitchen; but the handling
and impaling of the whole body of a huge beast by half a dozen rough
men, while its stiffened limbs were stretching out from its trunk,
presented the carnivorous character of our ordinary feeding very
grossly indeed.
Nevertheless I watched the process, partook of some of its result, and
found it good. The fire was lighted before midnight, the rotation of
the beast on the horizontal spit began shortly after, and continued
until the following midday, all this time being necessary for the
raising of the inner parts of the flesh to the cooking temperature of
about 180° Fahr.
Compare this with the grilling of a steak, which, when well done, is
done in a few minutes, or the roasting of the small joint as above
within thirty minutes, and you will see that I am justified in dwelling
on the great differences of the two processes, and the necessity of
very varied proceeding to meet these different conditions.
The difference of time is so great that the smaller relative surface
is insufficient to compensate for the evaporation that must occur if
the grilling principle, or the pure and simple action of radiant heat,
were only made available, as in the above ideal roasting of the small
joint.
What, then, is added to this? How is the desiccating difficulty
overcome in the large-scale roasting? Simply by _basting_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account