The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Some people may be inclined to smile at what I am about to say, viz.
that such savoury dishes, serving to vary the monotony of the poor
hard-working man’s ordinary fare, afford considerable moral, as well as
physical, advantage.
An instructive experience of my own will illustrate this. When
wandering alone through Norway in 1856, I lost the track in crossing
the Kjolen fjeld, struggled on for twenty-three hours without food or
rest, and arrived in sorry plight at Lom, a very wild region. After
a few hours’ rest I pushed on to a still wilder region and still
rougher quarters, and continued thus to the great Jostedal table-land,
an unbroken glacier of 500 square miles; then descended the Jostedal
itself to its opening on the Sogne fjord—five days of extreme hardship
with no other food than flatbrod (very coarse oatcake), and bilberries
gathered on the way, varied on one occasion with the luxury of two raw
turnips. Then I reached a comparatively luxurious station (Ronnei),
where ham and eggs and claret were obtainable. The first glass of
claret produced an effect that alarmed me—a craving for more and for
stronger drink, that was almost irresistible. I finished a bottle of
St. Julien, and nothing but a violent effort of will prevented me from
then ordering brandy.
I attribute this to the exhaustion consequent upon the excessive work
and insufficient unsavoury food of the previous five days; have made
many subsequent observations on the victims of alcohol, and have no
doubt that overwork and scanty, tasteless food is the primary source
of the craving for strong drink that so largely prevails with such
deplorable results among the class that is the most exposed to such
privation. I do not say that this is the only source of such depraved
appetite. It may also be engendered by the opposite extreme of
excessive luxurious pandering to general sensuality.
The practical inference suggested by this experience and these
observations is, that speech-making, pledge-signing, and blue-ribbon
missions can only effect temporary results unless supplemented by
satisfying the natural appetite of hungry people by supplies of food
that are not only nutritious, but savoury and _varied_. Such food need
be no more expensive than that which is commonly eaten by the poorest
of Englishmen, but it must be far better cooked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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