The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Ordinary sugar is crystalline, _i.e._ when it passes from the liquid
to the solid state it assumes regular geometrical forms. If the
solidification takes place undisturbed and slowly, the geometric
crystals are large, as in sugar-candy; if the water is rapidly
evaporated with agitation, the crystals are small, and the whole
mass is a granular aggregation of crystals, such as we see in loaf
sugar. If this crystalline sugar be heated to about 320° Fahr. it
fuses, and without any change of chemical composition undergoes
some sort of internal physical alteration that makes it cohere in a
different fashion. (The learned name for this action is _allotropism_,
and the substance is said to be _allotropic_, other conditioned; or
_dimorphic_, two-shaped). Instead of being crystalline the sugar
now becomes vitreous, it solidifies as a transparent amber-coloured
glass-like substance, the well-known barley-sugar, which differs from
crystalline sugar not only in this respect, but has a much lower
melting-point; it liquefies between 190° and 212°, while loaf-sugar
does not fuse below 320°. Left to itself, vitreous sugar returns
gradually to its original condition, loses transparency, and breaks up
into small crystals. In doing this it gives out the heat which during
its vitreous condition had been doing the work of breaking up its
crystalline structure, and therefore was not manifested as temperature.
This return to the crystalline condition is retarded by adding vinegar
or mucilaginous matter to the heated sugar; hence the confectioners’
name of ‘barley-sugar,’ which, in one of its old-fashioned forms, was
prepared by boiling down ordinary sugar in a decoction of pearl barley.
The French cooks and confectioners carry on the heating of sugar
through various stages bearing different technical names, one of the
most remarkable of which is a splendid crimson variety, largely used
in fancy sweetmeats, and containing no foreign colouring matter, as
commonly supposed. Though nothing is added, something is taken away,
and this is some of the chemically-combined water of the original
sugar, in the parting with which not only a change of colour occurs,
but also a modification of flavour, as anybody may prove by experiment.
When the temperature is gradually raised to 420°, the sugar loses two
equivalents of water, and becomes _caramel_—a dark-brown substance, no
longer sweet, but having a new flavour of its own. It further differs
from sugar by being incapable of fermentation.
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