The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
As we all know, the flavour and appearance of a boiled sole or mackerel
are decidedly different from those of a fried sole or mackerel, and
it is easy to understand that the different results of these cooking
processes are to some extent due to the difference of temperature to
which the fish is subjected. It will be at once understood that my
theory of the chief difference between roasted or grilled meat and
boiled meat applies to fried fish; that the flavouring juices are
retained when the fish is fried, while more or less of them escape into
the water when boiled.
Besides this, the surface of the fried fish, like that of the roasted
or grilled meat, is ‘browned.’ What is the nature, the chemistry of
this browning?
I have endeavoured to find some answer to this question, that I might
quote with authority, but no technological or purely chemical work
within my reach supplies such answer. Rumford refers to it as essential
to roasting, and provides for it in the manner already described,
but he goes no farther into the philosophy of it than admitting its
flavouring effect.
I must therefore struggle with the problem in my own way as I best can.
Has the gentle reader ever attempted the manufacture of ‘hard-bake,’
or ‘toffy,’ or ‘butter-scotch,’ by mixing sugar with butter, fusing
the mixture, and heating further until the well-known hard, brown
confection is produced? I venture to call this fried sugar. If heated
simply without the butter it may be called baked sugar. The scientific
name for this baked sugar is _caramel_.
The chemical changes that take place in the browning of sugar have been
more systematically studied than those which occur in the constituents
of flesh when browned in the course of ordinary cookery. Believing
them to be nearly analogous, I will state, as briefly as possible, the
leading facts concerning the sugar.
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