The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
One of the incidental advantages of the _bain-marie_ is that the
stewing may be performed in earthenware or even glass vessels, seeing
that they are not directly exposed to the fire. Other forms of such
double vessels are obtainable at the best ironmongers. I have lately
seen a very neat apparatus of this kind, called ‘Dolby’s Extractor,’
made by Messrs. Griffiths & Browett of Birmingham. This consists of
an earthenware vessel that rests on a ledge, and thus hangs in an
outer tin-plate vessel; but, instead of water, there is an air space
surrounding the earthenware pot. A top screws over this, and the whole
stands in an ordinary saucepan of water. The heat is thus very slowly
and steadily communicated through an air-bath, and it makes excellent
beef-tea.
At temperatures _below the boiling point_ evaporation proceeds
superficially, and the rate of evaporation at a given temperature
is proportionate to the surface exposed, irrespective of the total
quantity of water; therefore, the shallower the inner vessel of the
_bain-marie_, and the greater its upper outspread, the lower will be
the temperature of its liquid contents when its sides and bottom are
heated by boiling water. The water in a basin-shaped inner vessel will
have a lower temperature than that in a vessel of similar depth, with
upright sides, and exposing an equal water surface. A good water-bath
for stewing may be extemporised by using a common pudding-basin (I mean
one with projecting rim, as used for tying down the pudding-cloth), and
selecting a saucepan just big enough for this to drop into, and rest
upon its rim. Put the meat, &c., to be stewed into the basin, pour hot
water over them, and hot water into the saucepan, so that the basin
shall be in a water-bath; then let this outer water simmer—very gently,
so as not to jump the basin with its steam. Stew thus for about double
the time usually prescribed in English cookery-books, and compare the
result with similar materials stewed in boiling or ‘simmering’ water.
I have already (page 91) referred to the frying that, in most cases,
should precede stewing. It not only supplies the caramel browning there
described, but moderates the extraction of the juices which, as I have
said above, is desirable on the part of the meat itself when gravy is
not the primary object.
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