The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Some further explanation is here necessary, as it is quite possible to
obtain what commonly passes for tenderness by a very flagrant violation
of the principles above expounded. This is done on a large scale and
in extreme degree in the preparation of ordinary Australian tinned
meat. A number of tins are filled with the meat, and soldered down
close, all but a small pin-hole. They are then placed in a bath charged
with a saline substance, such as chloride of zinc, which has a higher
boiling point than water. This is heated up to its boiling point,
and consequently the water which is in the tins with the meat boils
vigorously, and a jet of steam mixed with air blows from the pin-hole.
When all the air is expelled, and the jet is of pure steam only (a
difference detected at once by the trained expert), the tin is removed,
and a little melted solder skilfully dropped on the hole to seal the
tin hermetically. An examination of one of these tins will show this
final soldering with, in some, a flap below to prevent any solder from
falling in amongst the meat. The object of this is to exclude all air,
for if only a very small quantity remains, oxidation and putrefaction
speedily ensues, as shown by a bulging of the tins instead of the
partial collapse that should occur when the steam condenses, the
display of which collapse is an indication of the good quality of the
contents.
By ‘good quality’ I mean good of its kind; but, as everybody knows who
has tried beef and mutton thus prepared, it is not satisfactory. The
preservation from putrefactive decomposition is perfectly successful,
and all the original constituents of the meat are there. It is
_apparently_ tender, but _practically_ tough—_i.e._ it falls to pieces
at a mere touch of the knife, but these fragments offer to the teeth
a peculiar resistance to proper mastication. I may describe their
condition as one of pertinacious fibrosity. The fibres separate, but
they are stubborn fibres still.
This is a very serious matter, for, were it otherwise, the great
problem of supplying our dense population with an abundance of cheap
animal food would have been solved about twenty years ago. As it is,
the plain tinned-meat enterprise has not developed to any important
extent beyond affording a variation with salt junk on board ship.
What is the _rationale_ of this defect? Beyond the general statement
that the meat is ‘overdone,’ I have met with no attempt at explanation,
but am not, therefore, disposed to give up the riddle without
attempting a solution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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