The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' AssociationSmith, Watson
Science
The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association
Smith, Watson
Hats
One of the physical properties of wool is its hygroscopicity or power of
absorbing moisture. As the very structure of wool and fur fibre would
lead us to suppose, these substances are able to absorb a very
considerable amount of water without appearing damp. If exposed freely
to the air in warm and dry weather, wool retains from 8 to 10 per cent.,
and if in a damp place for some time, it may absorb as much as from 30
to 50 per cent. of water: Wool, fur, or hair that has been washed,
absorbs the most moisture; indeed, the amount of water taken up varies
inversely with the fatty or oily matter present. Hence the less fat the
more moisture. In the washed wool, those fibres in which the cells are
more loosely arranged have the greatest absorbing power for water. No
doubt the moisture finds its way in between the cells of the wool fibre
from which the oil or fat has been removed. But I need hardly remind you
that if wool and fur are capable, according to the circumstances under
which they are placed, of absorbing so much moisture as that indicated,
it becomes (especially in times of pressure and competition) very
important to inquire if it be not worth while to cease paying wool and
fur prices for mere water. This question was answered long ago in the
negative by our Continental neighbours, and in Germany, France, and
Switzerland official conditioning establishments have been founded by
the Governments of those countries for the purpose of testing lots of
purchased wool and silk, etc., for moisture, in order that this moisture
may be deducted from the invoices, and cash paid for real dry wool, etc.
I would point out that if you, as hat manufacturers, desire to enter the
lists with Germany, you must not let her have any advantage you have
not, and it is an advantage to pay for what you know exactly the
composition of, rather than for an article that may contain 7 per cent.
or, for aught you know, 17 per cent. or 30 per cent. of water. There is,
so far as I know, no testing for water in wools and furs in this
country, and certainly no "conditioning establishments" (1887), and, I
suppose, if a German or French wool merchant or furrier could be
imagined as selling wool, etc., in part to a German or French firm, and
in part to an English one, the latter would take the material without a
murmur, though it might contain 10 per cent., or, peradventure, 30 per
cent. of water, and no doubt the foreign, just as the English merchant
or dealer, would get the best price he could, and regard the possible 10
per cent. or 30 per cent. of water present with certainly the more
equanimity the more of that very cheap element there were present. But
look at the other side. The German or French firm samples its lot as
delivered, takes the sample to be tested, and that 10 or 30 per cent. of
water is deducted, and only the dry wool is paid for. A few little
mistakes of this kind, I need hardly say, will altogether form a kind of
_vade mecum_ for the foreign competitor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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