The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' AssociationSmith, Watson
Science
The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association
Smith, Watson
Hats
The lower extremity is larger than the shaft, and
terminates in a conical bulb, or mass of cells, which forms the root of
the hair. In the next figure (Fig. 8) we are supposed to have separated
these cells, and above, (a), we see some of the cells from the central
pith or medulla, and fat globules; between, (b), some of the
intermediate elongated or angular cells; and below, (c), two flattened,
compressed, structureless, and horny scales from the outer portion of
the hair. Now these latter flattened scales are of great importance.
Their character and mode of connection with the stratum, or cortical
substance, below, not only make all the difference between wool and
hair, but also determine the extent and degree of that peculiar property
of interlocking of the hairs known as felting. Let us now again look at
a human hair. The light was reflected from this hair as it lay under the
microscope, and now we see the reason of the saw-like edge in the
longitudinal section, for just as the tiles lie on the roof of a house,
or the scales on the back of a fish, so the whole surface of the hair
is externally coated with a firmly adhering layer of flat overlying
scales, with not very even upper edges, as you see. The upper or free
edges of these scales are all directed towards the end of the hair, and
away from the root. But when you look at a hair in its natural state you
cannot see these scales, so flat do they lie on the hair-shaft. What you
see are only irregular transverse lines across it. Now I come to a
matter of great importance, as will later on appear in connection with
means for promoting felting properties. If a hair such as described,
with the scales lying flat on the shaft, be treated with certain
substances or reagents which act upon and dissolve, or decompose or
disintegrate its parts, then the free edges of these scales rise up,
they "set their backs up," so to say. They, in fact, stand off like the
scales of a fir-cone, and at length act like the fir-cone in ripening,
at last becoming entirely loose. As regards wool and fur, these scales
are of the utmost importance, for very marked differences exist even in
the wool of a single sheep, or the fur of a single hare. It is the duty
of the wool-sorter to distinguish and separate the various qualities in
each fleece, and of the furrier to do the same in the case of each fur.
In short, upon the nature and arrangement and conformation of the scales
on the hair-shafts, especially as regards those free upper edges,
depends the distinction of the value of many classes of wool and fur.
These scales vary both as to nature and arrangement in the case of the
hairs of different animals, so that by the aid of the microscope we have
often a means of determining from what kind of animal the hair has been
derived. It is on the nature of this outside scaly covering of the
shaft, and in the manner of attachment of these scaly plates, that the
true distinction between wool and hair rests.
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