Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
Quam multa antiquis sunt his incisa columuni
Nomina! cum saxo mox peritura simul,
Sed tu nulla times oblivia; fama superstes,
Esther, si pereant marmora, semper erit!
The intention was amiable, if the result were mediocre. But Lady Hester
caused them to be effaced promptly.
"I have made it a rule," said she to him more frankly than courteously,
"since I entered Society, never to allow people to write verses about
me. If I had been willing, I should have had thousands of poets to
celebrate me in every way, but I consider there is nothing so
ridiculous. Look at the Duchess of Devonshire, who receives every
morning a sonnet on her drive, an impromptu on her headache, and a crowd
of other absurdities. I abominate that sort of thing."
The doctor took it for granted.
The weather suddenly changed, and on November 7 the caravan started for
the Neck of Cedars, which the snows were threatening to obstruct. The
travellers were swept by one of those frightful storms of which the
countries of the East possess the secret; tents torn down, lanterns and
fires extinguished, the mountain shaken and trembling, howling of the
wind. The muleteers prudently vanished, fearing a night service. They
crossed the neck at last, leaving on their right the cedars to which the
doctor compares those of Warwick, scarcely less beautiful, and descended
on the villages of Becherre and Ehden, by a straight passage which would
have frightened many expert horsemen. Some miles from Ehden, there was,
in the middle of the mountain, clinging to the rock, suspended above the
abyss in which the Nadicha rumbles, a famous monastery, the Monastery of
St. Anthony. Miracles were there more specially reserved for epileptics
and the mentally afflicted; but St. Anthony was far more indebted for
his celebrity to the violent and implacable hostility which he showed
towards all representatives of the weak sex without exception. The
Moslems ought to venerate a saint so judicious. Not only had no woman
ever passed the threshold of the convent, but female animals themselves
were rigorously shut up, from fear of their mingling with the privileged
males in the forbidden precincts. It was this reason which decided Lady
Hester to make a détour in order to go to brave a saint so little
gallant. She invited the superior in her own convent, associating with
him, for form's sake, some sheiks of the village, and making a courteous
allusion to the firman of the Sultan which gave her the right to enter
every place. She went to the monastery mounted on a she-ass--double
sacrilege! When she entered the court, all the onlookers, monks and
servants, expected the earth to open under the feet of the impudent
women to swallow her up. But all passed off excellently, and she visited
the monastery from top to bottom. At every door there was a violent
altercation which threatened to turn to fisticuffs between the feminist
and anti-feminist clans of the monks. The meal was long and plentiful.
St.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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