Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
He wandered, amused, across Valetta, followed by a troupe of naked and
dusty children, jostled by the Maltese, whose woolly hair, olive skin
and flat noses caused him to dream already of barbarian countries,
passing the women with their shawls of black silk placed on the head,
descending in graceful folds, which enveloped the body and half-veiled
the face. Little, at least they appeared so to him, for daily life with
Lady Hester was obliged to distort a little the accurate computation of
figures, their feet and hands admirable, he compared them _in petto_, in
taking away their necklaces, bracelets and chains with which they were
overloaded, to little English serving-maids, without any offensive
intention on his part, but because he could not find, in his national
pride, a better comparison to express the admiration with which their
plump arms and their full figures inspired him.
He walked also in the magnificent Cathedral of San Giovanni, whose
pavement in mosaics of glistening colours gave him the illusion of
walking on the pictures from the gallery of the Louvre taken from their
frames and sewn together. And then what fêtes! So long as Lord Bute was
Governor of the island the doctor had to stand aside. Constantly Lady
Hester said to him: "Doctor, I am dining this evening with Lord Bute;
you are not invited, but do not regret that, for he is a haughty man who
does not like doctors and tutors to open their mouths before he
addresses them. Also take advantage of my absence to invite whomever you
like to dine with you; I have given orders to Franz (the German cook)."
At the end of May, this Governor who had such bad taste was recalled,
and General Oakes, who succeeded him, was a very worthy gentleman. Never
will the doctor see again such brilliant receptions.... Malta was then
the fashion; the Neapolitan nobility, which had refused to recognise the
usurper Murat, had flowed back there _en masse_, and the English, always
travelling, and to whom the Continental blockade, in closing Europe to
them, had given a revival of restlessness, had no choice and preferred
still the mild climate of Valetta to the London fog so much vaunted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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