Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
"Greece is therefore now the country whither the English flock to cure
the spleen," he writes on October 8, 1810. "One sees only mylords,
princes, but what one would never have expected there is the
'_mi-carême_,' yes, the '_mi-carême_.' She is a great lady of forty
years and more, relative or aunt of Mr. Pitt, attacked by the twofold
malady of antiquity and celebrity, who has appeared on the horizon. The
said lady, guarded by a doctor and two lackeys, has debouched in the
Morea. We are assured that she intends to make the pilgrimage to
Thyrinth, where was that fountain into which Juno, the '_mi-carême_' of
Olympus, used to descend every year to bathe and from which she used to
emerge a maiden. From the lustral waters, our traveller will visit
Thermopylæ, will make a survey of Pharsalia, where her
great-grandfather beat Pompey, and will come like 'my aunt Aurore' to
sentimentalise under the arbours of Tempea. I await her on the shores of
Acherusia.[1] We shall see this Fate."
The gallant consul lost his time and money the "_mi-carême_" did not
come to Janina.
On their arrival at the Piræus, the travellers saw a man who was
flinging himself from the great mole into the sea. The exploits of Byron
repeating Leander's achievement and crossing the Hellespont by swimming,
had already come to their ears. Lord Sligo felt sure that he recognised
him in this bold diver and hailed him. Byron, for it was indeed he,
dressed in haste and soon came to join them. He even lent his horses to
go to Athens to find means of transport in order to fetch Lady Hester
and his numerous trunks.
Having nothing to do, Bruce and the doctor tried to enter into relations
with a band of young veiled Turkish girls seated on the beach. The
latter, scared, took to flight, and Bruce, who had not learned enough
from his recent experience, made many signs to them to induce them to
remain. Some Turks who were lounging about the jetty muttered threats
against this enterprising Frank. He narrowly escaped getting into
mischief.
At Athens, Lady Hester, who was an excellent organiser of comfort,
transformed in a few hours her temporary house into a pleasant home,
where every evening an agreeable little company assembled.
Byron, who had been at college with Sligo and Bruce, was amongst the
number; but finding the manners of the hostess too despotic, he soon
grew tired. He pleaded urgent business in the Morea and did not reappear
until a few days before his departure. It is always disagreeable for
those who have fled from their country to meet their compatriots again.
It diminishes the consideration of the inhabitants, above all when these
new-comers possess illustrious rank, originality and eccentricity. Lady
Hester and Byron could compete on these three points, and this
accidental occurrence of what an Englishman hates the most in the world,
to be acquainted with another travelling Englishman, was not calculated
to establish a sympathetic intercourse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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