Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
Lady Hester was soon on a footing of intimacy with several distinguished
Turks. "One ought to see them," she wrote, "seated under the trees of a
public promenade, not distinguishing the Greek, Armenian or European
women, but looking at them _en bloc_ like sheep in a meadow." She
invited the Captain Pacha's brother to dinner, and, very quickly
familiarised with the use of knives, forks and chairs, he spent more
than half an hour at table--which is a great concession for a Turk--ate
of everything, including the good substantial English roast joints and
the heavy greasy puddings, enjoyed three or four glasses of wine and
appeared enchanted with all that his hostess offered him. It was true
that the hostess was not an ordinary one.
To charm her hours of leisure which all these occupations did not
contrive to fill, she went to visit the ships of the Turkish fleet, in
the dress of an officer. She wanted to see everything, examined
everything in detail, ferreted everywhere and returned delighted with
her expedition. To one of her friends, who, shocked at her masculine
garments, took the liberty of reproaching her on the subject, she
retorted with her customary impetuosity: "Breeches, a military cloak and
a hat with a plume are no doubt a more indecent costume than that of
your fine madams half-naked in their ball dresses."
From February the weather abruptly changed. Never was English spring
more severe. There was a foot of snow, and Lady Hester suffered cruelly
from the cold, for the brasiers which they carried about from one room
to another did not give even the illusion of warmth. She had a wild
desire to leave for Italy or for France, desire so much the more ardent
that the English were forbidden to enter these countries. She left no
stone unturned to approach M. de Latour-Maubourg, the French Ambassador
at Constantinople. It was a difficult task, for relations between French
and English were so strained that it was forbidden, even to private
individuals of the two nations, to have any intercourse with each other.
Lady Hester was like one of those thoroughbreds of which William Pitt
spoke. You are able to guide them with a hair and their pace is regular
and easy, but if you thwart them, they rear and become furious. The
obstacles excited instead of stopping her. She swore that she would see
M. de Latour-Maubourg, and she kept her word. She took long walks
through the Turkish country and rambled in the inextricable alleys of
Pera to throw off the scent of the spies whom Canning, become
suspicious, had launched in pursuit of her, poor devils who had never
been accustomed to such rough work. One day, when she was going to join
the French Ambassador on the shores of the Bosphorus, she was
followed ... On the morrow, Canning asked her:
"Lady Hester, where did you spend the day yesterday?"
She took the offensive:
"Has not your spy informed you?"
Canning began to laugh and lectured her:
"If you continue, I shall be obliged to write to England."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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