Middle East -- Description and travel; Stanhope, Hester, Lady, 1776-1839
When night came, Abu Ghosh installed himself with his pipes and his
wives at the corner of the fire and watched over the sleep of the woman
who had committed herself to his care. Early in the morning they
separated as friends, and one of the sheik's brothers protected Lady
Hester so far as Jerusalem.
Monotony of a poor land, and all at once, like a town of clouds, an
apparition of the Middle Ages, loopholed walls and belfries, belfries
and cupolas!... After having vigorously driven away the dragomans of the
Franciscan monastery who clung to them tenaciously, and pointed them out
in advance to Turkish cupidity, Lady Hester wandered into Jerusalem as
her fancies dictated.
Accompanied by twenty horsemen, she made her way to Kengi-Ahmed,
governor of the town. The seraglio partly opened its grated windows,
eyelids closed by an unconquerable sleep on the Mosque of Omar, the holy
mosque with its Persian and blue mosaics surrounded by gardens of
cypress-trees. She went to the Holy Sepulchre, and her visit was not
characterised by the meditation usually associated with a pilgrimage,
not even with a pilgrimage undertaken for artistic purposes. The monks
had, contrary to their custom, closed the doors of the church. They
solemnly opened them and came in procession to meet her carrying lighted
candles. The crowd, curious to see the spectacle, collected and
vociferated in chorus. The police kept it at a distance by blows from
cudgels. Lady Hester relieved the necessities of a Mameluke who had
escaped the previous year from the Cairo massacre. When Emin Bey--that
was his name--had heard the first shots fired by the Albanian soldiers
massed on the walls, when the great slaughter had begun, he had
comprehended that his only chance of safety lay in headlong flight. Then
he had driven his spurs into his horse's flanks, and raising the animal,
which was rearing and neighing with terror, he had leaped from the
platform facing the citadel to the foot of the ramparts--a leap of
forty-five or sixty feet. He had afterwards succeeded in reaching
Jerusalem by the desert, not without having been first overpowered and
robbed by the guides who conducted him. Since that time he had stooped
to live on alms.
She sauntered in the infamous alleys of the Ghetto (Was it necessary to
facilitate Brothers' task?), meeting children oldish-looking and
shrivelled, the Jews of Central Europe with their orange-coloured
greatcoats, wearing their tall skin caps and their abject air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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