But wisdom and folly, they are matters of environment. Behind it all,
there was the most wonderful satisfaction in the world in saying--"Oh,
you fool!"
BOOK III
THE CITY
CHAPTER XXIV
THE PALAZZO CAPELLO
They tell you--come to Venice by night; that then you will drift
silently into the marvellous mystery of it all; that then you will feel
the weight of the centuries in every shadow that lurks in the deep set
doorways; that then you will realise the tragedies that have been
played, the romances woven, and the dark deeds that have been done in
the making of its history--all this, if you come to Venice by night.
They tell you, you will never see Venice as the tourist sees it, if you
will but do this; that the impression of mystery will outlast the sight
of the Philistines crowding in the Square of St. Mark’s, will obliterate
the picture of a fleet of gondolas tearing through the Grand Canal, led
by a conductor shouting out the names of the Palaces as they pass. Your
conception of the city of mystery will last for ever, so they tell you,
if you do but come to Venice by night.
But there is another Venice than this, a Venice you see as you come to
it in the early morning--a city of light and of air, a city of
glittering water, of domes in gossamer that rise lightly above the
surface, finding the sun, as bubbles that melt all the prisms of light
into their liquid shells.
Come to Venice in the early morning and you will see a city bathed in a
sea of light; for it is not only that the sun shines upon it, but that,
like the white shoulders of a mermaid, glittering with the water drops
as she rises out of the sea, this wonderful city is not illuminated
only, but is drenched in light itself. It is no city of shadow and
mysteries then. There are no dark water-ways, no deepening gloom
beneath the bridges. In the early morning, it lies, as yet unwakened,
blinking, flashing, burning--a rose opal, set clear against the sun.
Then the deepest shadow is in a tone of gold, the highest light in a
mist of glittering silver. The domes of San Marco and Santa Maria della
Salute are caught up in the brilliancy and melt shapelessly into the
glow.
Come to Venice in the early morning and you will see a smelter’s furnace
into which has been cast the gold and silver from a boundless treasure
hoard. You will see all that white and yellow metal running in molten
streams of light; you will see the vibrating waves of air as the flames
leap upward, curling and twisting to the very gates of heaven itself.
You will see a city of gold and silver, of light and air all made liquid
in one sea of brilliance, if you do but come to Venice in the early
morning.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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