In the Grand Canal, just at the corner of the _Palazzo Babarigo_, there
appears the entrance to one of those myriad little ways that shoot
secretly away from the great, wide water street. Turning into this, the
_Rio San Polo_, following its course under the bridges and taking the
second turning on the left, an obedient gondolier will swing you round
with one sweep of his long oar into the _Rio Marin_.
Being human, assuming your love of the beautiful, taking time also as
his perquisite, he will probably choose more devious ways than this.
But, everyone will tell you that, by the _Rio San Polo_, it is the
shortest.
On each side of the _Rio Marin_, there runs a narrow little pathway.
Here, the houses do not dip down to the water’s edge, the space of light
is wider, and the hurrying of the pedestrian on the footway seems to
concentrate life for a moment and give it speech, in a place where
everything is mute, where everything is still.
Idlers gather lazily on the bridges to watch the swaying gondolas as
they pass beneath. Here, even the mystery you will find by night, is
driven away. The sun, the broad stretch of heaven, no longer a
ribbon-strip of blue tying together the house-tops, these combine to
defy mystery in the _Rio Marin_. Rose trees and flowering bushes top the
grey walls; lift up their colours against a cloudless sky and smile down
to you of gardens concealed on the other side.
Towards the end of this little water-way, almost opposite the _Chiesa
Tedeschi_, stands the _Palazzo Capello_, a broad and somewhat
unbeautiful house, looking placidly down upon the quiet water. No great
history is attached to it. No poet has ever written there, seated at
its windows; no tragedy has been played that the guide books know of, no
blood has been splashed against its walls. You will not find it
mentioned in any of the descriptions of Venice, for it has no history to
detain the ear; it bears no show of ornament without to attract the eye.
Yet, with that pomp and vanity that breathed in Venice in the middle
centuries, it was called--a palace--and only to those who know it from
within, can this dignity of name seem justified.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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