“The Bengal Legislative Council is sitting now. You will find it in an
octagonal wing of Writers’ Buildings: straight across the _maidan_. It’s
worth seeing.” “What are they sitting on?” “Municipal business. No end
of a debate.” So much for trying to keep low company. The long-shore
loafers must stand over. Without doubt this Council is going to hang
some one for the state of the City, and Sir Steuart Bayley will be chief
executioner. One does not come across Councils every day.
Writers’ Buildings are large. You can trouble the busy workers of
half-a-dozen departments before you stumble upon the black-stained
staircase that leads to an upper chamber looking out over a populous
street. Wild _chuprassis_ block the way. The Councillor Sahibs are
sitting, but anyone can enter. “To the right of the Lât Sahib’s chair,
and go quietly.” Ill-mannered minion! Does he expect the awe-stricken
spectator to prance in with a jubilant warwhoop or turn Catherine-wheels
round that sumptuous octagonal room with the blue-domed roof? There are
gilt capitals to the half pillars, and an Egyptian patterned
lotus-stencil makes the walls decorously gay. A thick-piled carpet
covers all the floor, and must be delightful in the hot weather. On a
black wooden throne, comfortably cushioned in green leather, sits Sir
Steuart Bayley, Ruler of Bengal. The rest are all great men, or else
they would not be there. Not to know them argues one’s self unknown.
There are a dozen of them, and sit six-a-side at two slightly curved
lines of beautifully polished desks. Thus Sir Steuart Bayley occupies
the frog of a badly made horse-shoe split at the toe. In front of him,
at a table covered with books and pamphlets and papers, toils a
secretary. There is a seat for the Reporters, and that is all. The
place enjoys a chastened gloom, and its very atmosphere fills one with
awe. This is the heart of Bengal, and uncommonly well upholstered. If
the work matches the first-class furniture, the inkpots, the carpet, and
the resplendent ceiling, there will be something worth seeing. But where
is the criminal who is to be hanged for the stench that runs up and down
Writers’ Buildings staircases, for the rubbish heaps in the Chitpore
Road, for the sickly savor of Chouringhi, for the dirty little tanks at
the back of Belvedere, for the street full of smallpox, for the reeking
gharri-stand outside the Great Eastern, for the state of the stone and
dirt pavements, for the condition of the gullies of Shampooker, and for
a hundred other things?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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