“Come up to the fire lookout in the first place, and then you’ll be able
to see the city.” This was at No. 22, Lal Bazar, which is the
headquarters of the Calcutta Police, the centre of the great web of
telephone wires where Justice sits all day and all night looking after
one million people and a floating population of one hundred thousand.
But her work shall be dealt with later on. The fire lookout is a little
sentry-box on the top of the three-storied police offices. Here a native
watchman waits always, ready to give warning to the brigade below if the
smoke rises by day or the flames by night in any ward of the city. From
this eyrie, in the warm night, one hears the heart of Calcutta beating.
Northward, the city stretches away three long miles, with three more
miles of suburbs beyond, to Dum-Dum and Barrackpore. The lamplit dusk on
this side is full of noises and shouts and smells. Close to the Police
Office, jovial mariners at the sailors’ coffee-shop are roaring hymns.
Southerly, the city’s confused lights give place to the orderly
lamp-rows of the _maidan_ and Chouringhi, where the respectabilities
live and the Police have very little to do. From the east goes up to the
sky the clamor of Sealdah, the rumble of the trams, and the voices of
all Bow Bazar chaffering and making merry. Westward are the business
quarters, hushed now, the lamps of the shipping on the river, and the
twinkling lights on the Howrah side. It is a wonderful sight--this
Pisgah view of a huge city resting after the labors of the day. “Does
the noise of traffic go on all through the hot weather?” “Of course. The
hot months are the busiest in the year and money’s tightest. You should
see the brokers cutting about at that season. Calcutta _can’t_ stop, my
dear sir.” “What happens then?” “Nothing happens; the death-rate goes up
a little. That’s all!” Even in February, the weather would, up-country,
be called muggy and stifling, but Calcutta is convinced that it is her
cold season. The noises of the city grow perceptibly; it is the night
side of Calcutta waking up and going abroad. Jack in the sailors’
coffee-shop is singing joyously: “Shall we gather at the River-the
beautiful, the beautiful, the River?” What an incongruity there is about
his selections! However, that it amuses before it shocks the listeners,
is not to be doubted. An Englishman, far from his native land, is liable
to become careless, and it would be remarkable if he did otherwise in
ill-smelling Calcutta. There is a clatter of hoofs in the courtyard
below. Some of the Mounted Police have come in from somewhere or other
out of the great darkness. A clog-dance of iron hoofs follows, and an
Englishman’s voice is heard soothing an agitated horse who seems to be
standing on his hind legs. Some of the Mounted Police are going out into
the great darkness. “What’s on?” “Walk-round at Government House. The
Reserve men are being formed up below. They’re calling the roll.” The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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