The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
The fiery and impetuous Greeks, enthusiastic in all their feelings—in
religion, in love, in hate, and in ambition—did not, in the present
instance, confine themselves so scrupulously as an European congregation
would have done, to the space assigned to them—half a dozen wild,
bandit-looking individuals clambered into the pulpit—a score more clung
to the steps—those who chanced to be nearest to the vacated stalls of
the Bishops appropriated them without ceremony—others hung by the
pillars which supported the gallery—and thus sufficient space was with
difficulty ensured by the panting beadles for the passage of the
procession.
At this moment, I followed my friend from the church, and, four or five
sturdy servants having with considerable effort forced a way for us to
the Patriarch’s Palace, we hastened to take possession of his private
sitting-room, which, as it overlooked the enclosure in which the church
was situated, and where the procession was to halt, he had politely
offered, in order to secure the gratification of my curiosity.
The night was one of beauty. The pale moon was riding high among masses
of fleecy clouds, which were pillowed upon the deep blue of the sky,
forming towers, and palaces, and islets, so changeful and fleeting, that
they looked like the ephemeral creations of fairy-land. A lofty and
leafy plane tree, whose foliage had newly burst beneath the soft
influence of spring, was sighing gently in the midnight wind; and the
long dark outline of the monastic buildings, and the slanting roof of
the church, loomed out in the faint moonlight, with a mysterious depth
of shadow well suited to the solemnity of the hour. The wide doors of
the sacred edifice suddenly fell back—the low chant of the choir
swelled upon the night air—and forth rushed the eager crowd that had so
lately thronged the church; each with his lighted taper in his hand, and
pressing forward to a raised platform in the centre of the enclosure,
railed in for the convenience of the Patriarch and his train of
dignitaries.
Ere long, the whole of the wide space was like a sea, in which the dark
waves flung themselves upwards in fiery sparks, while they rolled and
swelled in gloom beneath the surface—or like a spot upon a sky of
tempest, into which were gathered all the stars of heaven to form one
galaxy of light amid the surrounding gloom. And forth into this place of
brightness slowly moved the holy train from the chapel. First came the
bearer of the golden crucifix, surrounded by gilded lanterns and
gleaming candlesticks; and next the torch-bearers, whose waxen candles,
linked together in threes with gaudily-coloured ribbons, represented the
Trinity; then moved forward a train of priests, walking two and two,
with their flowing robes of saffron-coloured satin, their luxuriant
beards sweeping down to their breasts, their brimless caps, and their
long locks falling upon their shoulders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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