The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Nothing can be more picturesque than the head-dress of a Greek priest.
As they are not permitted to use either scissors or razor from the
period of their birth, when they are vowed to the Church by their
parents, they reduce the beard by plucking it, according to the old
Jewish law; and, being almost universally very fine men, they do this
with a care and skill which heighten the effect of their appearance;
while their long thick locks are, on ordinary occasions, hidden beneath
their caps.
This holy body was succeeded by the Patriarch, supported on either side
by two of the Archbishops, who, in the Greek Church, represent the
Apostles, as the Patriarch himself personates the Saviour, and followed
by the ten others in robes of such dazzling brilliancy that any attempt
at description would be idle. Immediately after these came the Bishops,
walking two and two; succeeded in their turn by Logotheti and Vogoride,
another train of priests, and finally by that portion of the
congregation who had not been able to effect an earlier egress from the
church.
The junior priests arranged themselves in a circle at the foot of the
platform, which was soon filled by the heads of the Church, and the lay
dignitaries, among whom stood my father. The Patriarch read a portion of
the scriptures, from an ample volume that lay open on the stand before
him: the attendant priests chanted a psalm which rose and fell on the
night wind in solemn cadences; and, finally, the elder of the Bishops,
having placed in the hand of the Patriarch one of the triple candles
which I have already named, wherewith to bless the people; and
subsequently two linked together, representing the double nature of
Christ; the whole crowd bowed their uncovered heads, and crossed
themselves seven times, with the collected points of the two
fore-fingers and the thumb; after which a passage was with difficulty
forced through the crowd for the return of the procession, whose chant
gradually died away upon the ear, as it disappeared beneath the portal
of the church, and in five minutes more we were alone, gazing out upon
the empty enclosure flickered with moonlight.
It was a solemn moment! The pomp and circumstance of human worship had
passed away, and we looked only on the uncertain moon, over which the
light scud was rapidly drifting; while the only sound that fell upon our
ears was the sighing of the midnight wind through the leaves of the tall
plane tree. I bowed my head in silence upon the cushion against which I
leaned—my excited fancies were suddenly sobered, my throbbing pulses
stilled—Nature had spoken to my heart, and my spirit was subdued
beneath her influence. It was a sudden and strange reaction; and, could
I at that moment have escaped to the solitude of my own chamber, I do
not think that one idle memory of the magnificence which I had so lately
witnessed would have intruded on my reveries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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