The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Ignorant as I am also of architecture as a science, I have a sufficient
perception of the beautiful and the symmetrical, to make me lament the
incongruous medley of different orders and materials by which I was
surrounded. What gigantic pillars encircle the dome!—What individual
treasures are collected together! But with what recklessness are they
forced into juxtaposition! Columns of varying sizes and proportions;
some of Egyptian granite, others of porphyry, others again of scagliola,
and various precious marbles, are scattered, like the fragments of many
distinct buildings, throughout the whole body of the edifice. The eye is
bewildered, and the mind remains unsatisfied.
Eight of the porphyry pillars are relics of the temple of Heliopolis;
while those of _verd-antique_ are from that of Ephesus. The walls are
lined with marble, jasper, porphyry, and verd-antique, to the height of
a gallery which surrounds the temple; and which, like the base of the
building, is floored with rich marbles, and supported by plain columns
of the same material. But the dome, which was formerly adorned with
minute mosaics, was white-washed when the Turks converted St. Sophia
into a mosque; and the original richness of the design is now only to
be deciphered in spots where the plaster has fallen away; added to
which, the inferior Imams attached to the building make a trade of the
fragments of mosaic that they are continually tearing down, and which
are eagerly bought up by travellers, who thus encourage a Vandalism
whose destructive effects are irreparable.
Before we ascended to the gallery, we were introduced to one of the
miracles of the place, in the shape of a column; a portion of whose
surface is cased with iron, in one part of which a deep cavity is worn
away beneath the metal; and into this orifice the visiter is invited to
insert his finger, in order to convince himself of the humidity of the
marble. This column is called by the Imams “the Sweating Stone;” but if
the indignation of the inanimate matter at the transformation of a
Christian temple into a Mahommedan mosque have really reduced it to a
state of perpetual and palpable perspiration, I am under the necessity
of confessing that the miracle was not wrought for me; for, on making
the trial, I was conscious only of an extreme chill.
Hence we ascended by a very dilapidated and crumbling spiral stair to
the gallery, devoted originally to the use of the women, and capacious
enough to contain several hundreds; and here the mosaic merchants
plunged their hands into their breasts, and from amid the folds of their
garments drew forth some thousands of the gilt and coloured stones which
they had torn away from the elaborately-ornamented dome.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account