The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
These were soon disposed of, and then we were permitted to contemplate
at our ease the marvels of the mighty pile, with its vast uncumbered
space, its bronzed columns, (many of them clamped with iron to enable
them to resist more powerfully the ravages of time,) and the huge,
shapeless, mystic-looking masses of dark shadow immediately beneath the
dome, which, after you have lost yourself in a thousand vague
conjectures on their nature and purport, turn out to be nothing more
than the mere daubing of some journeyman painter for the purpose of
effacing two mighty cherubim, that, in days of yore, pointed to the
Christian votary the way to Heaven, but which now, in the dim twilight
of the place, look like familiar spirits, shapeless and grim, guarding
the accumulated relics of the days of paganism, congregated beneath
them.
The view from this gallery, at the upper extremity of the mosque, is
extremely imposing; from that point you take in, and feel, all the
extent of the edifice, whose effect is rendered the more striking, from
the fact that it is entirely laid bare beneath you, being totally free
from the divisions and subdivisions which in Catholic chapels are
necessary for the location of the different shrines. Plain and
unornamented, save by the casing of marble already alluded to, the walls
tower upward in severe beauty, until they reach the base of the stately
dome, which is poized, as if by some mighty magic, on the capitals of a
circle of gigantic and rudely fashioned pillars; immediately beneath you
are the columns that support the gallery in which you stand, throughout
the whole extent of the temple; while on your left hand the marble
pulpit, with its flight of noble steps, shut in by a finely sculptured
door of the same material, and on your right the Imperial closet, with
its gilded lattices, complete the detail of the picture.
The two huge waxen candles occupying the sides of the arched recess, or
_mihrab_, at the eastern end of the building, are lighted every night,
and last exactly twelve months; they are the very Gog and Magog of
wax-chandlery, and must be at least eighteen inches in circumference.
In making the tour of the gallery, we came upon a door that had been
stopped with masonry; the frame into which it had originally fitted is
of white marble, and remains quite perfect. There are traces of violence
on the brick-work, which appears to have been secured by some powerful
cement that has indurated with age, until it has acquired the solidity
of stone, and has become capable of resisting any ordinary effort to
remove it; and this door is the second miracle of St. Sophia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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