The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
The legend runs that the united attempts of all the masons of Stamboul
are powerless against the rude masonry that blocks the entrance of this
passage, by reason of a wondrous and most potent talisman, which human
means have as yet failed to weaken; but that it conducts to an apartment
in which a Greek Bishop is seated before a reading-desk perusing an open
volume of so holy a nature, that no Moslem eye must ever rest upon it.
Nor does the tradition end here, for both the Turks and Greeks have a
firm faith in the prophecies which have been made, that St. Sophia will
one day revert to the Christians, on which occasion the walled-up Bishop
will emerge from his concealment, and chant a solemn high mass at the
great altar.
The latter portion of the legend would imply that the superstition is of
remote origin. I felt glad of this—these mystic imaginings require to
be enveloped in the mist of centuries, in order to elevate the
ridiculous into the sublime, and to attract our fancy without revolting
our reason.
From the gallery we passed out upon the leads that cover the inferior
cupolas of the building, and screen the mausoleums of the Sultans, and
other distinguished personages, whose ashes repose within the holy
precincts of St. Sophia; and, after traversing a number of these, and
crouching through several low and narrow stone passages, stopping at
intervals to contemplate the magnificent views that were spread out
beneath us on all sides, and which varied every moment as we advanced,
we at length found ourselves at the foot of the ruinous and crumbling
stair, or rather ascent, (for the traces of steps are almost worn away)
leading to the gallery encircling the dome.
Few of the party were disheartened by the difficulty; and accordingly we
slipped and scrambled towards the summit, and resolved to see all the
marvels of the place; but when the narrow door which opens from the
gallery was flung back by the guide, “a change came o’er the spirit of
our dream”—and out of the hundred individuals who were lion-hunting at
St. Sophia, there were only seven who possessed nerve enough to make the
tour of the dome. Many a fair lady and gallant knight leant for an
instant over the slender fence, and looked down into the body of the
building while clinging firmly to the rail; gazing on men reduced to the
dimensions of pigmies, and wide carpets dwindled to the proportions of a
pocket handkerchief; but a brief survey contented them, and they drew
back from the dizzy spectacle, with swimming heads and aching eyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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