The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Our party was a numerous one—the aged nurse, who had reared the
children of the family—the orphan boy of a dead son, who, with his
wife, had perished by plague during the previous twelve months—several
neighbours who had chosen the hour of dinner to make their visits—a
very pretty friend from Scutari—and a very plain acquaintance from the
house of death—the widow of a day—whose husband had expired the
previous morning, been buried the same evening, and, as it appeared,
forgotten on the morrow; for the “disconsolate widow” had come forth in
a pink vest, and sky blue trowsers, with rings on her fingers, and
jewels in her turban, to seek the advice and assistance of the master of
the house, in securing some valuable shawls, and sundry diamonds and
baubles which she had possessed before her marriage, from the grasp of
the deceased’s relatives.
As soon as the serious business of the repast really commenced, that is,
when we had each possessed ourselves of a cushion, and squatted down
with our feet under us round the dinner tray, having on our laps linen
napkins of about two yards in length richly fringed; the room was
literally filled with slaves, “black, white, and gray,” from nine years
old to fifty.
Fish, embedded in rice, followed the side or rather circle saucers that
I have already described; and of most of which I sparingly partook, as
the only answer that I was capable of giving to the unceasing “Eat, eat,
you are welcome,” of the lady of the house. With the fish, the spoons
came into play, and all were immersed in the same dish; but I must not
omit to add that this custom is rendered less revolting than it would
otherwise be, by the fact that each individual is careful, should the
_plat_ be partaken of a second time, (a rare occurrence, however, from
the rapidity with which they are changed), always to confine herself to
one spot. The meat and poultry were eaten with the fingers; each
individual fishing up, or breaking away, what pleased her eye; and
several of them tearing a portion asunder, and handing one of the pieces
to me as a courtesy, with which, be it remarked, _par parenthèse_, I
should joyfully have dispensed. Nineteen dishes, of fish, flesh, fowl,
pastry, and creams, succeeding each other in the most heterogeneous
manner—the salt following the sweet, and the stew preceding the
custard—were terminated by a pyramid of pillauf. I had the perseverance
to sit out this elaborate culinary exhibition; an exertion which is,
however, by no means required of any one, by the observance of Turkish
courtesy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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