The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
This somewhat extraordinary circumstance is accounted for by a variety
of legends; the most comprehensible of the whole being that which
affirms that, some holy man or woman having been refused food on this
very spot, when on a pilgrimage to a shrine of the Virgin, situated in
the neighbourhood, the well-disposed fish, whose pious self-immolation
has been thus immortalised, sprang from the waters of the spring, and
flung themselves upon the heated ashes of the fire, whereon the churlish
host, who refused help to the weary and wayworn pilgrims, had just
prepared his own meal. How the travellers were induced to refrain from
the savoury repast; and how the fish contrived to return to the stream
after being well cooked on one side, the legend sayeth not; and those
who are inclined to doubt the fact of their present existence had
better make a descent into the vault on the occasion of an Easter
festival; and, should they still continue sceptical, after the scene
which they will then and there witness, nothing that I can say will
awaken their faith.
After having duly flung a few piastres upon the salver held by the
priest who guarded the door; and protected on either side by a
gentleman, to secure me from the pressure of the crowd, I commenced my
slippery descent into the subterranean chapel. The stone steps were
running with water, spilt by the eager motions of those who were bearing
it away; nor was this all, for, as they handed it to each other over the
heads of such as chanced to obstruct their passage, an occasional shower
fell upon us from above, whose holiness by no means sufficed to
counteract its chill.
When I gained the chapel, and paused to take breath, a most singular
scene presented itself. The narrow space was cumbered with individuals,
who were shouting, struggling, and even fighting their way, to the
margin of the Well: an image of the Virgin tricked out in gold and
embroidery, before which burned the lamp that lit up the subterranean,
gleamed out in vain from a niche opposite to the spring: the very piety
of her votaries had induced them to turn their backs upon her; and I
believe that mine was the only eye which rested upon her altar.
Some, who had succeeded in filling the vessels which they had brought
with them, were standing bare-headed, throwing the cold stream over
their shaven crowns: others, who had suffered from lameness, were
emptying their earthen jars upon their feet; some were pouring it down
their chests, and others again down their throats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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