The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
The Turkish cemetery stretches along the slope of the hill behind the
barrack, and descends far into the valley. Its thickly-planted cypresses
form a dense shade, beneath which the tall head-stones gleam out white
and ghastly. The grove is intersected by footpaths, and here and there a
green glade lets in the sunshine, to glitter upon many a gilded tomb.
Plunge into the thick darkness of the more covered spots, and for a
moment you will almost think that you stand amid the ruins of some
devastated city. You are surrounded by what appear for an instant to be
the myriad fragments of some mighty whole—but the gloom has deceived
you—you are in the midst of a Nekropolis—a City of the Dead. Those
chisselled blocks of stone that lie prostrate at your feet, or lean
heavily on one side as if about to fall, and which at the first glance
have seemed to you to be the shivered portions of some mighty
column—those turban-crowned shafts which rise on all sides—those gilt
and lettered slabs erected beside them—are memorials of the
departed—the first are of ancient date; the earth has become loosened
at their base, and they have lost their hold—the others tell their own
tale; the bearded Moslem sleeps beside his wife—the turban surmounting
his head-stone, and the rose-branch carved on her’s, define their sex,
while the record of their years and virtues is engraven beneath. Would
you know more? Note the form and folds of the turban, and you will learn
the rank and profession of the deceased—here lies the man of law—and
there rests the Pasha—the soldier slumbers yonder, and close beside you
repose the ashes of the priest—here and there, scattered over the
burial-ground, you may distinguish several head-stones from which the
turbans have been recently struck off—so recently that the severed
stone is not yet weather-stained; they mark the graves of the
Janissaries, desecrated by order of the Sultan after the distinction of
their body; who himself stood by while a portion of the work was going
forward; and the mutilated turbans that are half buried in the long
grass beside these graves are imperishable witnesses to their
disgrace—a disgrace which was extended even beyond the grave, and whose
depth of ignominy can only be understood in a country where the dead are
objects of peculiar veneration.
Those raised terraces enclosed within a railing are family
burial-places; and the miniature column crowned with a _fèz_, painted
in bright scarlet, records the rest of some infant Effendi. At the base
of many of the shafts are stones hollowed out to contain water, which
are carefully filled, during the warm season, by pious individuals, for
the supply of the birds, or any wandering animals.
The Turks have a strange superstition attached to this cemetery. They
believe that on particular anniversaries sparks of fire exude from many
of the graves, and lose themselves among the boughs of the cypresses.
The idea is at least highly poetical.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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