The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
But Constantinople boasts no burial-place of equal beauty with that of
Scutari, and probably the world cannot produce such another, either as
regards extent or pictorial effect. A forest of the finest cypresses
extending over an immense space, clothing hill and valley, and
overshadowing, like a huge pall, thousands of dead, is seen far off at
sea, and presents an object at once striking and magnificent. Most of
the trees are of gigantic height, and their slender and spiral outline
cutting sharply against the clear sky is graceful beyond expression. The
Turks themselves prefer the great cemetery of Scutari to all others;
for, according to an ancient prophecy in which they have the most
implicit faith, the followers of Mahomet are, ere the termination of the
world, to be expelled from Europe; and, as they are jealous of
committing even their ashes to the keeping of the Giaour, they covet,
above all things, a grave in this Asiatic wilderness of tombs. Thus,
year after year, the cypress forest extends its boundaries, and spreads
further and wider its dense shadows; generation after generation sleeps
in the same thickly-peopled solitude; and the laughing vineyard and the
grassy glade disappear beneath the encroachments of the ever-yawning
sepulchre—the living yield up their space to the dead—the blossoming
fruit trees are swept away, and the funereal and feathering boughs of
the dark grave-tree tower in their stead.
It is not without a sensation of the most solemn awe that you turn aside
from the open plain, and abandon the cheerful sunshine, to plunge into
the deep gloom of the silent forest; scores of narrow pathways intersect
it in all directions; and, should you fail to follow them in your
wanderings, your every step must be upon a grave. Here a group of lofty
and turban-crowned columns, each with a small square slab of stone at
its base, arrests you with a thrill of sickening interest, for that
silent and pigmy slab tells you a tale of terror—each covers the
severed head of a victim to state policy, or state intrigue—Vizirs and
Pashas, Beys and Effendis—the eye that blighted, and the brow that
burned, are mouldering, or have mouldered there—the fever of ambition,
the thirst of power, the wiliness of treason, and the pride of
place—all that frets and fevers the mind of man, is there laid to rest
for ever—and the stately turban towers, as if in mockery, above the
trunkless head which festers in its dishonoured grave!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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