The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
I rejoiced that we required the accommodation only for some hours; as
perhaps there are few things more depressing than a stroll through the
empty and echoing chambers that you have associated with ideas and
memories of mirth, and inhabitation, and amusement. The spacious
apartments gave back a hollow reverberation, as we wandered over their
uncarpeted floors, and flung open the casements of their uncurtained
windows. The very chambers which had been purposely and carefully
prepared for us were new and strange, being in a different part of the
house from that occupied by the harem; and I more than once regretted
the absence of the courteous old man who had received me so kindly on my
first visit.
As I had failed to obtain a view of the procession at the Festival of
the Baïram, that terminated the Ramazan, when an apartment had been
prepared for us at the Mint, of which we were unable to take possession,
owing to the density of the crowd, that filled every street in its
neighbourhood, and which we were not sufficiently early to precede; I
was the more anxious not to subject myself to a similar disappointment
on the present occasion; a feeling that was, indeed, shared by the whole
party; and, accordingly, on parting for the night, which we did at an
early hour, we were very sincere in our reciprocal promises to be
hyper-diligent on the morrow.
And what a night we passed! The cannon was booming along the water, and
rattling in long-sustained echoes among the hills—the myriad dogs that
infest the city, scared from their usually quiet rest, were howling,
whining, and barking, without a moment’s intermission; and the Imperial
band was perambulating the streets, attended by flambeau-bearers; and
executing, with admirable precision, some noble pieces of music. The
wind-instruments were relieved at intervals by the drums and fifes, than
which there are, perhaps, none better in the world: and these were
succeeded by the tramp, beneath our window, of the whole garrison of the
city, afoot and under arms two hours before daybreak.
I watched the troops as they passed, the flaring torches throwing them
into broad light between the two lofty white walls that hemmed in the
narrow street, and from whose surface the sickly moonlight was fast
waning, scrambling up the steep hill upon whose rise the house is built,
rather in masses than in columns; officers and men mingled pell-mell,
laughing, talking, and struggling over the rough pavement, in a manner
much more picturesque than imposing.
I had scarcely thrown myself once more upon my sofa, in order to court
the sleep of which I had as yet only dreamt, when the rattling of our
heavy carriage into the courtyard, and the loud knock at the door by
which the Greek waiting-maid announced her wish for admittance,
dispelled my hopes once more; and when she entered, candle in hand, I
resigned myself to my fate, and, having ascertained that it was nearly
four o’clock, made a hasty toilette, and joined my companions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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