The Civilisation of the Renaissance in ItalyBurckhardt, Jacob
History
The Civilisation of the Renaissance in Italy
Burckhardt, Jacob
Italy -- Civilization; Renaissance -- Italy
the lips not too thin, and fitting neatly together; an accidental
opening, that is, when the woman is neither speaking nor laughing,
should not display more than six upper teeth. As delicacies of detail,
he mentions a dimple in the upper lip, a certain fulness of the under
lip, and a tempting smile in the left corner of the mouth--and so on.
The teeth should not be too small, regular, well marked off from one
another, and of the colour of ivory; and the gums must not be too dark
or even like red velvet. The chin is to be round, neither pointed nor
curved outwards, and growing slightly red as it rises; its glory is the
dimple. The neck should be white and round and rather long than short,
with the hollow and the Adam’s apple but faintly marked; and the skin at
every movement must show pleasing lines. The shoulders he desires broad,
and in the breadth of the bosom sees the first condition of its beauty.
No bone may be visible upon it, its fall and swell must be gentle and
gradual, its colour ‘candidissimo.’ The leg should be long and not too
hard in the lower parts, but still not without flesh on the shin, which
must be provided with white, full calves. He likes the foot small, but
not bony, the instep (it seems) high, and the colour white as alabaster.
The arms are to be white, and in the upper parts tinted with red; in
their consistence fleshy and muscular, but still soft as those of
Pallas, when she stood before the shepherd on Mount Ida--in a word,
ripe, fresh, and firm. The hand should be white, especially towards the
wrist, but large and plump, feeling soft as silk, the rosy palm marked
with a few, but distinct and not intricate lines; the elevations in it
should be not too great, the space between thumb and forefinger brightly
coloured and without wrinkles, the fingers long, delicate, and scarcely
at all thinner towards the tips, with nails clear, even, not too long
nor too square, and cut so as to show a white margin about the breadth
of a knife’s back.
Æsthetic principles of a general character occupy a very subordinate
place to these particulars. The ultimate principles of beauty, according
to which the eye judges ‘senza appello,’ are for Firenzuola a secret, as
he frankly confesses; and his definitions of ‘Leggiadria,’ ‘Grazia,’
‘Vaghezza,’ ‘Venustà,’ ‘Aria,’ ‘Maestà,’ are partly, as has been
remarked, philological, and partly vain attempts to utter the
unutterable. Laughter he prettily defines, probably following some old
author, as a radiance of the soul.
The literature of all countries can, at the close of the Middle Ages,
show single attempts to lay down theoretic principles of beauty;[782]
but no other work can be compared to that of Firenzuola. Brantome, who
came a good half-century later, is a bungling critic by his side,
because governed by lasciviousness and not by a sense of beauty.
CHAPTER VIII.
DESCRIPTIONS OF LIFE IN MOVEMENT.
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