The Civilisation of the Renaissance in ItalyBurckhardt, Jacob
History
The Civilisation of the Renaissance in Italy
Burckhardt, Jacob
Italy -- Civilization; Renaissance -- Italy
Whether the fifteenth century has left any written account of its ideal
of beauty, I am not able to say. The works of the painters and sculptors
do not render such an account as unnecessary as might appear at first
sight, since possibly, as opposed to their realism, a more ideal type
might have been favoured and preserved by the writers.[778] In the
sixteenth century Firenzuola came forward with his remarkable work on
female beauty.[779] We must clearly distinguish in it what he had
learned from old authors or from artists, such as the fixing of
proportions according to the length of the head, and certain abstract
conceptions. What remains, is his own genuine observation, illustrated
with examples of women and girls from Prato. As his little work is a
kind of lecture, delivered before the women of this city--that is to
say, before very severe critics--he must have kept pretty closely to the
truth. His principle is avowedly that of Zeuxis and of Lucian--to piece
together an ideal beauty out of a number of beautiful parts. He defines
the shades of colour which occur in the hair and skin, and gives to the
‘biondo’ the preference, as the most beautiful colour for the hair,[780]
understanding by it a soft yellow, inclining to brown. He requires that
the hair should be thick, long, and locky; the forehead serene, and
twice as broad as high; the skin bright and clear (candida), but not of
a dead white (bianchezza); the eyebrows dark, silky, most strongly
marked in the middle, and shading off towards the ears and the nose; the
white of the eye faintly touched with blue, the iris not actually black,
though all the poets praise ‘occhi neri’ as a gift of Venus, despite
that even goddesses were known for their eyes of heavenly blue, and that
soft, joyous, brown eyes were admired by everybody. The eye itself
should be large and full, and brought well forward; the lids white, and
marked with almost invisible tiny red veins; the lashes neither too
long, nor too thick, nor too dark. The hollow round the eye should have
the same colour as the cheek.[781] The ear, neither too large nor too
small, firmly and neatly fitted on, should show a stronger colour in the
winding than in the even parts, with an edge of the transparent
ruddiness of the pomegranate. The temples must be white and even, and
for the most perfect beauty ought not to be too narrow. The red should
grow deeper as the cheek gets rounder. The nose, which chiefly
determines the value of the profile, must recede gently and uniformly in
the direction of the eyes; where the cartilage ceases, there may be a
slight elevation, but not so marked as to make the nose aquiline, which
is not pleasing in women; the lower part must be less strongly coloured
than the ears, but not of a chilly whiteness, and the middle partition
above the lips lightly tinted with red. The mouth, our author would have
rather small, and neither projecting to a point, nor quite flat, with
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