The Civilisation of the Renaissance in ItalyBurckhardt, Jacob
History
The Civilisation of the Renaissance in Italy
Burckhardt, Jacob
Italy -- Civilization; Renaissance -- Italy
In Venice[833] and Florence at the time of the Renaissance there were
rules and regulations prescribing the dress of the men and restraining
the luxury of the women. Where the fashions were less free, as in
Naples, the moralists confess with regret that no difference can be
observed between noble and burgher.[834] They further deplore the rapid
changes of fashion, and--if we rightly understand their words--the
senseless idolatry of whatever comes from France, though in many cases
the fashions which were received back from the French were originally
Italian. It does not further concern us, how far these frequent changes,
and the adoption of French and Spanish ways,[835] contributed to the
national passion for external display; but we find in them additional
evidence of the rapid movement of life in Italy in the decades before
and after the year 1500. The occupation of different parts of Italy by
foreigners caused the inhabitants not only to adopt foreign fashions,
but sometimes to abandon all luxury in matters of dress. Such a change
in public feeling at Milan is recorded by Landi. But the differences, he
tells us, in costume continued to exist, Naples distinguishing itself by
splendour, and Florence, to the eye of the writer, by absurdity.[836]
We may note in particular the efforts of the women to alter their
appearance by all the means which the toilette could afford. In no
country of Europe since the fall of the Roman empire was so much trouble
taken to modify the face, the colour of skin and the growth of the
hair, as in Italy at this time.[837] All tended to the formation of a
conventional type, at the cost of the most striking and transparent
deceptions. Leaving out of account costume in general, which in the
fourteenth century[838] was in the highest degree varied in colour and
loaded with ornament, and at a later period assumed a character of more
harmonious richness, we here limit ourselves more particularly to the
toilette in the narrower sense.
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