The Civilisation of the Renaissance in ItalyBurckhardt, Jacob
History
The Civilisation of the Renaissance in Italy
Burckhardt, Jacob
Italy -- Civilization; Renaissance -- Italy
No sort of ornament was more in use than false hair, often made of white
or yellow silk.[839] The law denounced and forbade it in vain, till some
preacher of repentance touched the worldly minds of the wearers. Then
was seen, in the middle of the public square, a lofty pyre (talamo), on
which, beside lutes, dice-boxes, masks, magical charms, song-books, and
other vanities, lay masses of false hair,[840] which the purging fires
soon turned into a heap of ashes. The ideal colour sought for both in
natural and artificial hair, was blond. And as the sun was supposed to
have the power of making the hair of this colour,[841] many ladies would
pass their whole time in the open air on sunshiny days.[842] Dyes and
other mixtures were also used freely for the same purpose. Besides all
these, we meet with an endless list of beautifying waters, plasters, and
paints for every single part of the face--even for the teeth and
eyelids--of which in our day we can form no conception. The ridicule of
the poets,[843] the invectives of the preachers, and the experience of
the baneful effects of these cosmetics on the skin, were powerless to
hinder women from giving their faces an unnatural form and colour. It is
possible that the frequent and splendid representations of
Mysteries,[844] at which hundreds of people appeared painted and masked,
helped to further this practice in daily life. It is certain that it was
widely spread, and that the countrywomen vied in this respect with their
sisters in the towns.[845] It was vain to preach that such decorations
were the mark of the courtesan; the most honourable matrons, who all the
year round never touched paint, used it nevertheless on holidays when
they showed themselves in public.[846] But whether we look on this bad
habit as a remnant of barbarism, to which the painting of savages is a
parallel, or as a consequence of the desire for perfect youthful beauty
in features and in colour, as the art and complexity of the toilette
would lead us to think--in either case there was no lack of good advice
on the part of the men.
The use of perfumes, too, went beyond all reasonable limits. They were
applied to everything with which human beings came into contact. At
festivals even the mules were treated with scents and ointments,[847]
Pietro Aretino thanks Cosimo I. for a perfumed roll of money.[848]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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