The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the RevolutionGoodwin, Maud Wilder
History
The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the Revolution
Goodwin, Maud Wilder
Southern States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775; Upper class -- Southern States
The peruke began its all-conquering career in England, under the Stuarts.
Elizabeth, it is true, had owned eighty suits of hair, and Mary of
Scotland had varied her hair to match her dresses. But a defect of the
French Dauphin introduced the use of the wig for men as well as women, and
false hair became the rage throughout the world of fashion. A London
peruke-maker advertised: "Full-bottom wigs, full bobs, minister's bobs,
naturals, half-naturals, Grecian flyes, Curleyroys, airey levants, qu
perukes and baggwiggs." The customer must have been hard to please, who
could find nothing to suit his style in such a stock.
The settlers in Colonial America did not allow themselves such luxuries of
the toilet as a variety of wigs, though a well-planned peruke or "a bob"
might have been a good device to trick the tomahawk of the savage into a
bloodless scalping. With the poorer people, a single wig for Sunday wear
sufficed, and was replaced on week days by a cap, generally of linen.
The Colonial dames, being too far from Court to copy the low-necked
dresses, the stomachers and farthingales of the inner circle of fashion,
wore instead, huge ruffs, full, short petticoats, and long, flowing
sleeves, over tight undersleeves. Even in the wilderness, however, they
retained a feminine fondness for gay attire.
John Pory, a clever scapegrace intimately acquainted with gaming-tables
and sponging-houses in London, but figuring in Virginia as secretary to
Governor Yeardley, wrote home to Sir Dudley Carleton, "That your Lordship
may know that we are not the veriest beggars in the world, our cow-keeper
here of James Cittie, on Sundays goes accoutred all in fresh flaming silk,
and a wife of one that in England professed the black art, not of a
scholar but of a collier of Croydon, wears her rough beaver hat with a
fair pearl hat-band and a silken suit, thereto correspondent."
Lively John was probably lying a little in the cause of immigration, but
it is certain that the desire for fine clothes early called for a check,
and at an early session of the Virginia House of Burgesses, a sumptuary
law was passed "against excess in apparell," directing "that every man be
ceffed in the church for all publique contributions--if he be unmarried,
according to his own apparrell; if he be married, according to his own and
his wives, or either of their apparell." Here, surely, is a suggestion
from the past, for the fashionable church of the present.
A later law in the provinces enacts that "no silke stuffe in garments or
in peeces, except for hoods or scarfes, nor silver or gold lace, nor
bonelace of silke or thread, nor ribbands wrought with silver or gold in
them, shall be brought into this country to sell, after the first of
February." A Maryland statute proposes that two sorts of "cloaths" only be
worn, one for summer, the other for winter. But this was going too far,
and the law was never enforced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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