The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the RevolutionGoodwin, Maud Wilder
History
The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the Revolution
Goodwin, Maud Wilder
Southern States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775; Upper class -- Southern States
Men of that day took their dress very seriously. Washington, who had
doubtless gained many ideas of fashion from the modish young officers of
Braddock's army, ordered his costumes with as much particularity as he
afterward conducted his campaigns. Shortly before he started with his
little cavalcade of negro servants on his five-hundred-mile ride to
Massachusetts, in 1756, he sent over to a correspondent in London an order
for an extensive wardrobe. He wanted "2 complete livery suits for
servants, with a spare cloak and all other necessary trimmings for two
suits more." He omits no detail. "I would have you," he writes, "choose
the livery by our arms; only as the field is white, I think the clothes
had better not be quite so, but nearly like the inclosed. The trimmings
and facings of scarlet, and a scarlet waistcoat. If livery lace is not
quite disused, I should be glad to have the cloaks laced. I like that
fashion best, and two silver-laced hats for the above servants."
In addition to this, he wishes "1 set of horse-furniture with livery lace,
with the Washington crest on the housings, etc. The cloak to be of the
same piece and color of the clothes, 3 gold and scarlet sword-knots, 3
silver and blue ditto, 1 fashionable gold-laced hat."
It is not strange that the gallant young officer made a sensation among
the dames and damsels of Philadelphia and New York as he journeyed
northward, nor that Mistress Mary Phillipse nearly lost her heart to the
wearer of the gold and scarlet sword-knots and the fashionable gold-laced
hat.
All society went in gorgeous array in those gay days, before color had
been banished to suit the grim taste of the Puritan, and to meet the
economical maxims of _Poor Richard_. Judges, on the bench, wore robes of
scarlet, faced with black velvet, exchanged in summer for thinner ones of
silk. Etiquette demanded equally formal costume for advocates at the bar.
Patrick Henry, who began by indifference to dress, even rushing into court
fresh from the chase, with mud and mire clinging to his leather breeches,
at length yielded to social pressure, and donned a full suit of black
velvet in which to address the court; and, on one occasion at least, a
peach-colored coat effectively set off by a bag-wig, powdered, as pompous
Mr. Wirt observes, "in the highest style of forensic fashion."
A satirical description sets forth the dress of a dandy in the middle of
the eighteenth century, as consisting of "a coat of light green, with
sleeves too small for the arms, and buttons too big for the sleeves; a
pair of Manchester fine stuff breeches, without money in the pockets;
clouded silk stockings, but no legs; a club of hair behind, larger than
the head that carries it; a hat of the size of a sixpence, on a block not
worth a farthing."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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