The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the RevolutionGoodwin, Maud Wilder
History
The Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern Life before the Revolution
Goodwin, Maud Wilder
Southern States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775; Upper class -- Southern States
If the dress of the period before the Revolution was not hygienic, it was
handsome, and eminently picturesque, as the old portraits of the last
century show. The universally becoming ruffles of lace were in vogue, and
women still young wore dainty caps, whose delicate lace, falling over the
hair, lent softness and youth to the features. Old ladies were not unknown
as now, but, at an age when the nineteenth century woman of fashion is
still frisking about in the costume of a girl of twenty, the Colonial dame
adopted the dress and manners which she conceived suited to her age and
dignity. Here, for instance, is the evidence of a portrait, marked on the
stretcher, "Amy Newton, aged 45, 1770, John Durand, _pinxit_." The lady
wears an ermine-trimmed cloak draped about her shoulders, over a bodice,
lace-trimmed and cut square in the neck. The lace-bordered cap falls as
usual over the matron's hair. There is, to me, something rather fine and
dignified in the assumption of a matronly dress as a matter of pride and
choice. In one respect the Colonial dames, old and young, were gayly
attired. Their feet were clad in rainbow hues of brilliant reds and greens
and their dresses were generally cut to show to advantage the high-heeled
slipper and clocked stocking of bright color.
Washington's order-book forms an excellent guide to the prevailing modes
of the day. The orders call for rich coats and waistcoats and cocked hats
for himself; and for Mrs. Washington, a salmon tabby velvet, fine flowered
lawn aprons, white callimancos hoes, perfumed powder, puckered petticoats,
and black velvet riding masks. Master Custis is fitted out with two hair
bags and a whole piece of ribbon, while the servants are provided with
fifty ells of _osnabergs_ (a coarse cloth made of flax and tow
manufactured at Osnaberg, in Germany, and much in vogue for servants'
wear).
The goods of the time, for high and low, were made to outlast more than
one generation. Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, was betrothed in his youth
to a beautiful young lady. The wedding-dress was ordered from London, but
before its arrival the bride elect had died, and the dress was laid aside.
A century later, it appeared at a fancy dress ball, its fabric
untarnished, and untouched by time. It was worth while to pay high prices
for such stuffs. In many a household to-day is cherished some bit of the
brocades, sarcenets, shalloons, and tammies worn by our great-grandmothers
and their mothers.
In the Maryland _Gazette_, somewhere in the middle of the last century,
Catherine Rathel, milliner, from London, advertises a tempting assortment
of white satin, India and other chintzes, calico, gingham, cloaks,
cardinal's hats, flowered gauze aprons, bonnets, caps, égrettes, fillets,
breast-flowers, fashionable ribbands, buttons and loops, silk hose,
superfine white India stockings, box and ivory combs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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