Belfast, Ireland, is the home of linen and damask. There are
manufactories in both Scotland and France, but it is in Belfast that the
fabric attains to the highest perfection, and "Irish linen" has come to
be synonymous with excellence of design and weaving and luster--a most
desirable trilogy. The prospective purchaser of table linen should go to
her task fortified with some information on the subject, that she may not
find herself totally at the mercy of the salesman, who often knows little
about his line of goods beyond their prices. First of all she will
probably he asked whether she prefers bleached or unbleached damask. The
latter--called "half-bleach" in trade vernacular--is made in Scotland and
comes in cheap and medium grades alone. Though it lacks the choiceness
of design and the beauty and fineness of the Belfast bleached linens, it
is good for everyday wear and quickly whitens when laid in the sun on
grass or snow; while the fact that its cost is somewhat less than that of
the corresponding quality in the bleached damask, and that it wears
better, recommends it to many. Occasionally the chemicals used in the
bleaching process are made overstrong to hasten whitening, with the
result that the fibers rot after a while and little cut-like cracks
appear in the fabric. This is not usual, but of course the unbleached
damask precludes all possibility of such an occurrence. One firm in
Belfast still conscientiously employs the old grass-and-sun system of
bleaching, and their damask is plainly marked "Old Bleach." The
half-bleach is sold both by the yard and in patterns.
DAMASK
Damask, by the way, takes its name from the city of Damascus where the
fabric was first made, and is simply "linen so woven that a pattern is
produced by the different directions of the thread," plain damask being
the same fabric, but unfigured. The expression "double damask" need
occasion no alarm; it does not imply double cost, a double cloth, or
double anything except a double, or duplicate, design, produced by the
introduction of an extra thread so woven in that the figure appears
exactly the same on both sides of the cloth, making it reversible.
QUALITY
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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