The Congo and Coasts of AfricaDavis, Richard Harding
History
The Congo and Coasts of Africa
Davis, Richard Harding
Africa -- Description and travel; Congo (Democratic Republic) -- Description and travel
In the first-class car were three French officers en route to
Brazzaville, the capital of the French Congo, and a dog, a sad
mongrel, very dirty, very hungry. On each side of the tiny toy car
were six revolving-chairs, so the four men, not to speak of the dog,
quite filled it. And to our own bulk each added hand-bags, cases of
beer, helmets, gun-cases, cameras, water-bottles, and, as the road
does not supply food of any kind, his chop-box. A chop-box is
anything that holds food, and for food of every kind, for the hours
of feeding, and the verb "to feed," on the West Coast, the only
word, the "lazy" word, is "chop."
The absent-minded young missionary, with Fanny jammed between his
ankles, and looking out miserably upon the world, and two other
young missionaries, travelled second-class.
They were even more crowded together than were we, but not so much
with luggage as with humanity. But as a protest against the high
charges of the railroad the missionaries always travel in the open
car. These three young men were for the first time out of England,
and in any fashion were glad to start on their long journey up the
Congo to Bolobo. To them whatever happened was a joke. It was a joke
even when the colored "wife" of one of the French officers used the
broad shoulders of one of them as a pillow and slept sweetly. She
was a large, good-natured, good-looking mulatto, and at the frequent
stations the French officer ran back to her with "white man's chop,"
a tin of sausages, a pineapple, a bottle of beer. She drank the
beer from the bottle, and with religious tolerance offered it to the
Baptists. They assured her without the least regret that they were
teetotalers. To the other blacks in the open car the sight of a
white man waiting on one of their own people was a thrilling
spectacle. They regarded the woman who could command such services
with respect. It would be interesting to know what they thought of
the white man. At each station the open car disgorged its occupants
to fill with water the beer bottle each carried, and to buy from the
natives kwango, the black man's bread, a flaky, sticky flour that
tastes like boiled chestnuts; and pineapples at a franc for ten. And
such pineapples! Not hard and rubber-like, as we know them at home,
but delicious, juicy, melting in the mouth like hothouse grapes,
and, also, after each mouthful, making a complete bath necessary.
One of the French officers had a lump of ice which he broke into
pieces and divided with the others. They saluted magnificently many
times, and as each drowned the morsel in his tin cup of beer, one of
them cried with perfect simplicity: "C'est Paris!" This reminded me
that the ship's steward had placed much ice in my chop basket, and I
carried some of it to another car in which were five of the White
Sisters. For nineteen days I had been with them on the steamer, but
they had spoken to no one, and I was doubtful how they would accept
my offering.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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