The Congo and Coasts of AfricaDavis, Richard Harding
History
The Congo and Coasts of Africa
Davis, Richard Harding
Africa -- Description and travel; Congo (Democratic Republic) -- Description and travel
Lorenço Marquez is not a spot which one would select for a home.
When I was first there, the deaths from fever were averaging fifteen
a day, and men who dined at the club one evening were buried
hurriedly before midnight, and when I returned in the winter months,
the fever had abated, but on the night we arrived twenty men were
robbed. The fact that we complained to the police about one of the
twenty robberies struck the commandant as an act of surprising and
unusual interest. We gathered from his manner that the citizens of
Lorenço Marquez look upon being robbed as a matter too personal and
selfish with which to trouble the police. It was perhaps credulous
of us, as our hotel was liberally labelled with notices warning its
patrons that "Owing to numerous robberies in this hotel, our guests
will please lock their doors." This was one of three hotels owned by
the same man. One of the others had been described to us as the
"tough" hotel, and at the other, a few weeks previous, a friend had
found a puff-adder barring his bedroom door. The choice was somewhat
difficult.
On her way from Lorenço Marquez to Beira our ship, the _Kanzlar_,
kept close to the shore, and showed us low-lying banks of yellow
sand and coarse green bushes. There was none of the majesty of
outline which reaches from Table Bay to Durban, none of the blue
mountains of the Colony, nor the deeply wooded table-lands and great
inlets of Kaffraria. The rocks which stretch along the southern
coast and against which the waves break with a report like the
bursting of a lyddite shell, had disappeared, and along Gazaland and
the Portuguese territory only swamps and barren sand-hills
accompanied us in a monotonous yellow line. From the bay we saw
Beira as a long crescent of red-roofed houses, many of them of four
stories with verandas running around each story, like those of the
summer hotels along the Jersey coast. It is a town built upon the
sands, with a low stone breakwater, but without a pier or jetty, the
lack of which gives it a temporary, casual air as though it were
more a summer resort than the one port of entry for all Rhodesia. It
suggested Coney Island to one, and to others Asbury Park and the
board-walk at Atlantic City. When we found that in spite of her
Portuguese flags and naked blacks, Beira reminded us of nothing
except an American summer-resort, we set to discovering why this
should be, and decided it was because, after the red dust of the
Colony and the Transvaal, we saw again stretches of white sand, and
instead of corrugated zinc, flimsy houses of wood, which you felt
were only opened for the summer season and which for the rest of
the year remained boarded up against driven sands and equinoctial
gales. Beira need only to have added to her "Sea-View" and "Beach"
hotels, a few bathing-suits drying on a clothes-line, a tin-type
artist, and a merry-go-round, to make us feel perfectly at home.
Beira being the port on the Indian Ocean which feeds Mashonaland and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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