Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
Little did I think that the cluster of grey-roofed houses which I saw
before me against the hillside would be my home for so many years. What
lodestone of artistic metal the place contains I know not, but its
effects were strongly felt, in the studios of Paris and Antwerp
particularly, by a number of young English painters studying there, who
just about then, by some common impulse, seemed drawn towards this
corner of their native land.... It was part of our creed to paint our
pictures directly from nature, and not merely to rely upon sketches and
studies which we could afterwards amplify in the comfort of a studio."
The road from Penzance to Land's End being rather dull and devoid of
interest, the best way to reach the outlying promontory is by one of the
G.W.R. motors that make the regular journey. A stay of a short time is
usually made at the Logan Rock, perched on the summit of a pile of
crags. To reach it involves rather a breakneck scramble down and stiff
climb up, and it is doubtful if the satisfaction of having done the feat
is equal to the amount of fatigue involved. The stone rocks to a
considerable degree, but less than it did before it was upset in 1824 by
Lieutenant Goldsmith, who was commanded to replace it by the Admiralty.
St. Buryan Church and Cross are both worth inspection. The former has a
tower ninety feet in height, while the latter has been attributed to the
Romano-British period. It is a plain little erection of stone standing
on a base of five steps. On one side is carved in low relief a fully
clothed figure of the Saviour with hands extended horizontally.
The first aspect of Land's End, with its covering of turf, worn smooth
by the feet of many trippers, is disappointing; and it is only when we
begin to wander about the lesser used trackways that it is possible to
realize that this is no ordinary promontory, but a lonely headland
broken into a hundred beetling crags, with huge granite boulders piled
one on another, forming a stalwart bulwark against the onrushing waves
of the Atlantic. In the crevices of these miniature precipices purple
heather and golden gorse have set them here and there, while the silver
lichens have clothed the scarred surfaces of rock with a tender grace.
The wind-swept downs that cap the lonely headland are also not without a
certain beauty, from the very nature of the surrounding waste of wild
grey sea.
As we gaze over the waters from the top of this lonely rock, we think
instinctively of the lost land of Lyonesse, that antiquaries and
geologists tell us once stretched from our feet to the Scillies.
[Illustration: ON THE LERRYN RIVER]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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