Nowhere can this first lesson in geology be more forcibly taught than by
an examination of the sterile rocks and rapidly decomposing precipices
of this bleak and hoary region. Once through the glens, and fairly
commencing the ascent of the center mountain, every symptom of existing
life has disappeared; and amid the huge, tabular masses that accompany
you in the upward journey, there is no trace of organic forms in these
vestiges of the past. The nucleus of the whole group is granite, one
dense aggregation of crystals; now rent and furrowed by a thousand seams,
the heart and penetralia bared and open, a convulsed sea of molten matter
still and motionless as the grave! The associated rocks, all of the
primary class, are gneiss, mica-slate, quartz-rock, chlorite-slate, and
limestone; and these inclose no relic of a living thing. Geology thus
ascends the stream of Time; but it gives no farther tidings of a scene
like this, save that it arose from the depth beneath at the Creator’s
bidding.
THE STRUCTURE OF THE DISTRICT.—The mountain of Ben-Mac-Dhui, according to
recent measurements, is 4,418 feet in height, and covers a superficial
area of nearly forty miles in extent. It occupies a central position
in the Grampian range, being about equidistant betwixt Aberdeen on the
German Sea and the western coast, so ribbed and indented by the Atlantic.
Ranges of granitoid rocks, of the primary class, diverge for nearly forty
miles south and north of Ben-Mac-Dhui, thereby giving this mountain a
prominence in position possessed by no other within the boundaries of the
island.
The valleys by which this monarch is surrounded, open in every direction,
and run toward every point of the compass. Two great rivers, the Don and
Dee, take their rise in some of the deep gullies of the mountain, while
the Spey is fed by the innumerable streams that issue from its sides.
These rivers have each an easterly direction, which, by their water-shed,
give shape and character to the whole district. A hundred lateral glens,
with their tributary streams, and all their tarn-head or loch, debouch
upon the three principal straths, whereby their deepest solitudes are
reached, and the very foundations of their loftiest peaks bared and
laid open. There, remote from human habitation, the geologist sees as
it were two conditions of the world,—the one, the shattered framework
and fragments of its early convulsions, huge mountains prostrate and
crumbling beneath his feet,—and the other, the spring-heads of renewed
vitality collecting in countless dripping rills, each to sustain its
own little plot of pasturage and flowerets, not the less welcome that
they are all so rare and alpine, and looking in their freshness as if
they were there purposely to cicatrize and heal up the deep scars in the
rugged precipices around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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