The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
We did not start for another hour. We had first to consume the breakfast
which our host the Agha had brought down for us; and, moreover, as all
the Sheikh's train had got to be transported across the river, it would
obviously be at least an hour before the ferry was available for our
use. Furthermore the Agha could urge that we had no cause whatever to
hurry. We were bound for the little village of Erdil, reported only a
three hours' journey; and we had much better wait "till the sun had got
into the valley" and had warmed up the frosty air a little so as to make
riding more pleasant. In the alternative he suggested that we had better
not go at all, because the road was infamous, and riding absolutely
impossible. "Horses couldn't go, and mules couldn't go, and Englishmen
couldn't walk." But we were pledged to visit Erdil, so we over-ruled
this objection. Moreover, we felt it highly impolitic to admit that
there was any place in existence where "Englishmen couldn't walk."
Erdil is a tiny derelict Christian village situated in the Oramar valley
a little above its confluence with the Zab. All the surrounding villages
are inhabited by Kurds and Moslems; and as from year's end to year's end
it is hardly ever visited by any outside Christian, Rabban Werda had
begged us earnestly at least to give it a call. Moreover we might make
discoveries. Erdil was reputed to possess some "old books" which it was
willing to show to Rabbi Dr. Wigram, and had sent us one Ibrahim, an
Erdilite, who promised to lead us to the _cache_. "Old books," in
ninety-nine cases out of one hundred, are apt to prove not worth the
seeking. But a scholar would never forgive himself for missing the
hundredth chance.
The Oramar river is a noble stream, not inferior to the Zab in volume,
gushing forth from a grim rocky portal which notches the Zab's mountain
wall. We were assured that no European had ever yet traversed its
gorges; and the assertion is certainly corroborated by the fact that the
best map of these regions leaves this corner perfectly blank. In view of
the repute of the road we felt half inclined for an instant to leave our
animals at Suryi, and call again for them on returning. But we thought
this would be too great a temptation for even a friendly Agha, and
finally resolved to take them along.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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