The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
All payments should be considered as being made in kind, not in money;
for coin is scarce in Turkey, and not very generally used.[6] Even if
it were more plentiful it is but a fluctuating security; for the coins
in common use are the silver ones, and these are never current at their
face value.[7] The gold £1 Turkish, nominally worth 100 piastres,
fetched at the time of our visit from 102 piastres at Mosul to 114 at
Aleppo; and the value of Mejidies (nominally 20 piastres), and of 5
piastre-pieces, varied also in different degrees. This is not all the
fault of the Government; for while home trade and industry must be
sorely hampered by such eccentricities, the Constantinople banks (which
are run by European syndicates) are not altogether displeased. They can
make a profit on the deal, for they hold most of the bullion: and when
any particular coin has much appreciated anywhere, they can unload their
stock of it at that particular place.
Eastward from the Euphrates our track leads over rather lower country,
an open undulating heathland which melts gradually into alluvial plain.
Here and there, dispersed about the surface, are wide patches of stony
ground; and where the track chances to skirt them it is usually found
that many of the stones have been piled up into little pillars, five or
six one upon the other making a column about two feet high. Each patch
will contain twenty or thirty of these little pillars. They are set up
by casual wayfarers as a sort of votive memorial, just as the Patriarch
Jacob set up his pillar at Bethel.
A similar habit prevails in the mountain districts; but there it is more
customary to insert the votive stone in the forked branch of a tree.
Cairns also are frequently seen at the sides of the paths in the
mountains; but these are generally erected to mark the site of some
murder, and it is usual for each passer-by to add his stone to the pile.
If you were a friend of the victim you deposit your offering gently; if
you were his enemy you hurl it on vindictively. Thus the pile grows
apace any way, and it is to be presumed that his _manes_ are appeased.
Near the village of Seruj we reach the outskirts of the great plain of
Mesopotamia. Its levels stretch away southward as far as the eye can
see. But our track edges still to the left and presently enters the hill
country, the first and lowest undulations of the great mountain range
towards the north.
It must have been on some of these spurs that the wrecks of Crassus'
army found refuge after their great defeat by the Parthians in the year
53 B.C. Carrhae, which gave its name to the battle, lay in the midst of
the plains some twenty-five miles to the southward, and the actual scene
of the fighting was some distance further south still: but the beaten
troops made for the mountains, their only asylum from their pursuers;
and here the last cohorts were surrounded and forced to lay down their
arms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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