The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
There is but little above ground at Nineveh now. The long walls remain,
looking much like derelict railway embankments; and the great moat,
fifty yards in width, and twenty feet deep, into which the waters of the
river Khozr could be turned at will, still girdles the city round. Sunk
as it is in conglomerate rock, this moat is a monument of patient
labour. Of the two great mounds where the King's palaces stood, Koyunjik
and Nebi Yunus, the former and larger has probably yielded the last of
its important secrets to the British Museum. It is well, however, to
remember that the same was said of Karnak, in Egypt, and the richest of
all finds have come to light there since then. You can never be sure
that you have got all that is in a mound, till, _more fossorum
Germanicorum_, you have passed the whole of it through a fine sieve.
Still, the search has been fairly thorough. The excavators however, left
one of the great human-headed bulls above ground; and it may be of
interest to record that this monument (which was presumably the property
of the British Museum) first generously parted with its head to mend a
mill; and was subsequently sold for the sum of three shillings and six
pence by the Vali of Mosul (not worthy old Tahir Pasha, but his
predecessor), and burnt into lime by its purchaser.
The second mound, Nebi Yunus--alas, one can but gnash one's teeth in
envy and anger when one knows that the favourite palace of Esarhaddon
lies beneath it--that king whose smaller house elsewhere has yielded the
finest specimens of Assyrian art yet known. And this, his _chef
d'oeuvre_, cannot be examined, because of the mosque of Nebi Yunus
(Jonah the Prophet) that stands in the midst of the Turkoman village
that crowns it. The Prophet will be very angry if you disturb him, say
the Mussulmans, and will take vengeance dire![40] If it were indeed
Jonah that lies there, there might be something in the argument; for the
Prophet is known to have had a temper. But it is not he. After all,
seeing that his prophecy of the destruction of Nineveh was not
fulfilled, the top of the mound that covers the ruins of the city is
perhaps the one spot of earth where it is quite impossible for him to be
buried! As a matter of fact, the mosque is an old Nestorian church, once
the cathedral of that body in the days when their independent
patriarchate was in Mosul; and the occupant of the tomb is John the
Lame, a worthy Patriarch of the thirteenth century, who now gets
compensation for a life of hardship in his posthumous honours as Jewish
Prophet and Mussulman Saint.
Mar John the Lame was a friend to knowledge and learning in his life;
and it must be a real annoyance to the good old man to think that his
corpse has been made into an obstacle to both of them now that he has
done with it!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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