The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
The body of the temple consists of twin naves, divided longitudinally by
a pointed arcade, and roofed with two pointed barrel vaults. The general
effect of the architecture is very similar to that of a rude early
thirteenth-century church in the mountain districts of England. The
naves lie due east and west; and possibly this Orientation was
intentional, for certain traces of sun worship do survive in the Yezidi
creed. But more probably the lines of the building were dictated by the
nature of the site, for the longer axis would naturally run parallel
with stream and hill. Moreover any significance that might be attached
to the arrangement is altogether discounted by the fact that the
sanctuary is placed, not at the eastern end, but in the centre of the
northern side. This is a plan which is frequently followed in the more
easterly Christian churches; and which indicates that the builders
adopted as their model, not the Roman basilica, but the Persian Audience
Hall.
[Illustration: AKRA.
From the south-west. The figures are those of Rabban Werda and others of
our suite.
No. 5]
The floor of the southern nave is three steps lower than that of the
northern; and at its western end is a square tank of running water, sunk
below the level of the floor. Ceremonial ablutions have a prominent
place in the ritual of Yezidi worship. There is a second tiny tank in
the quadrangle: and a third (evidently fed by the overflow of the tank
in the nave) just under the south-western angle of the temple, on the
level of the lower terrace. A dwarf wall between the arcade pillars
fences off the central bays of the upper nave, thus enclosing a sort of
presbytery in front of the opening to the sanctuary.
At the eastern end we turned to the left through a door in the northern
wall, and entered the square chamber under the smaller and more easterly
of the two conical spires. From this we passed back into the sanctuary
itself; a larger square chamber, situated under the larger spire, and
thus, placed practically in the centre of the northern nave wall.[48] A
low doorway, closed with an iron grille, opens from the nave into this
sanctuary; and immediately behind the opening stands a sort of ark,
rather smaller than the shrine of St. Alban, and completely shrouded in
red drapery. We were led up to it, but bidden not to touch it: so we
stood round solemnly, and gazed.
"What is in it?" we asked our interpreter, the Syrian Deacon, Werda--a
man of some education, who is generally superior to the superstitions of
his race. But in this Domdaniel of Sorcery even his assurance was
wavering--"I will tell you later," he replied nervously. "I cannot say
it in this place." It was not till we were safe again in the quadrangle
that he approached us with much circumspection, and confided to us in
an awestruck whisper, "the King of the Peacocks is in that big chest!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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