The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
All above and around the monastery the hillside is spangled with scores
of rude little oratories, mostly in a ruinous condition. These were
erected sometimes by individual worshippers and sometimes by
communities. The founder of such a chapel is thought to acquire singular
merit; and it is held that, at his death, his chantry will be
transported with him to paradise and serve as his heavenly mansion in
the life to come. A lamp is lit in each of them by the temple priests at
sundown, and at the same time other lamps are lit all over the temple,
thus forming the necromantic illumination which so startled us the
previous night. They only continue burning for about half an hour; but
we chanced to arrive just in time to get the full effect.
Within the main gateway of the monastery a flight of eight or ten steps
leads down into a little sunken quadrangle; and the opposite side of
this is occupied by the façade of the temple--a plain square wall of
ashlar, unpierced by any window, but having a small arched doorway
placed near the corner on the left. Many of the stones in this façade
have queer cabalistic patterns, rudely incised in the surface so as to
leave the device in low relief. The priests insist that these are all
meaningless--mere bits of fanciful ornament introduced by the Christian
builders:[45] but though it is likely enough that the original meaning
of them is forgotten, it is manifestly absurd to pretend either that
they never had any, or that none is attributed to them now. There are no
Christian symbols among them; and the devices which recur most
frequently represent a hatchet and a comb:[46] but the most ominous and
the most prominent of all is the famous Snake, which is carved in relief
on the door jamb, and which receives the peculiar attention of being
kept carefully blacked.
[Illustration: THE YEZIDI TEMPLE AT SHEIKH ADI]
Three or four Yezidi worshippers were making their round of the
quadrangle, prostrating themselves before certain niches and at several
other recognized points. They devoutly kissed the threshold of the door,
and several of the stones in the walls (by no means always the carved
ones), but we did not see any of them pay particular homage to the
snake.
The priests were prepared for our visit, and were waiting at the door to
receive us. They at once admitted us to the temple, first begging us to
remove our shoes. This action is to be regarded as mere politeness, not
as "bowing down in the house of Rimmon;" for it is customary to remove
the shoes in Turkey, even when only entering a room.[47]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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